Amp Meter Hookup

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Amp Meter Hookup

gottdi
Where should I hook up my amp meter? Off the motor or controller? How? + side or - side? Between battery pack and controller or between controller and motor? I am assuming I do not attach any thing to the negative side ever. Is this correct?

Thanks
Pete :  )
http://onegreenev.blogspot.com/
No need to wait any longer. You can now buy one off the shelf. You can still build one too.
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Re: Amp Meter Hookup

Zeke Yewdall
This is a non-isolated shunt based ammeter, right?  Those generally go in
the negative side, in order to have the signal wires be very low voltage
compared to ground, but if it's an ungrounded traction pack like it should
be, it may not matter. I would still fuse the signal leads going from the
shunt to the ammeter.  And, I would put two ammeters in, on for battery
current, and one for motor current.

Z

On 7/30/08, gottdi <[hidden email]> wrote:

>
>
> Where should I hook up my amp meter? Off the motor or controller? How? +
> side
> or - side? Between battery pack and controller or between controller and
> motor? I am assuming I do not attach any thing to the negative side ever.
> Is
> this correct?
>
> Thanks
> Pete :  )
> --
> View this message in context:
> http://www.nabble.com/Amp-Meter-Hookup-tp18733176p18733176.html
> Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
> Nabble.com.
>
> _______________________________________________
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> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
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Re: Amp Meter Hookup

gottdi
By ungrounded you mean isolated and by ungrounded you mean no pack voltage to the vehicle body!

My pack is isolated from the body as is my controller.

So amp meters do go on the neg side. How would I install two negative side amp meters one for the motor and one for the controller.

I have a direct neg from battery pack to controller B-.

I then assume that I would put one from M- on the controller to the motor? Motor amps?
I would also put one between the main pack and the controller. Battery amps?

Just trying to get it straight.
Zeke Yewdall wrote
This is a non-isolated shunt based ammeter, right?  Those generally go in
the negative side, in order to have the signal wires be very low voltage
compared to ground, but if it's an ungrounded traction pack like it should
be, it may not matter. I would still fuse the signal leads going from the
shunt to the ammeter.  And, I would put two ammeters in, on for battery
current, and one for motor current.

Z

On 7/30/08, gottdi <gottdi@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Where should I hook up my amp meter? Off the motor or controller? How? +
> side
> or - side? Between battery pack and controller or between controller and
> motor? I am assuming I do not attach any thing to the negative side ever.
> Is
> this correct?
>
> Thanks
> Pete :  )
> --
> View this message in context:
> http://www.nabble.com/Amp-Meter-Hookup-tp18733176p18733176.html
> Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
> Nabble.com.
>
> _______________________________________________
> General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
>
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Re: Amp Meter Hookup

Zeke Yewdall
On 7/30/08, gottdi <[hidden email]> wrote:

>
>
> I have a direct neg from battery pack to controller B-.
>
> I then assume that I would put one from M- on the controller to the motor?
> Motor amps?
> I would also put one between the main pack and the controller. Battery
> amps?
>
> Just trying to get it straight.



That's what I would do.  There seem to be alot of opinions on whether
battery amps or motor amps are more important, if you only have one ammeter
instead of two.

Z

Zeke Yewdall wrote:

> >
> > This is a non-isolated shunt based ammeter, right?  Those generally go in
> > the negative side, in order to have the signal wires be very low voltage
> > compared to ground, but if it's an ungrounded traction pack like it
> should
> > be, it may not matter. I would still fuse the signal leads going from the
> > shunt to the ammeter.  And, I would put two ammeters in, on for battery
> > current, and one for motor current.
> >
> > Z
> >
> > On 7/30/08, gottdi <[hidden email]> wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >> Where should I hook up my amp meter? Off the motor or controller? How? +
> >> side
> >> or - side? Between battery pack and controller or between controller and
> >> motor? I am assuming I do not attach any thing to the negative side
> ever.
> >> Is
> >> this correct?
> >>
> >> Thanks
> >> Pete :  )
> >> --
> >> View this message in context:
> >> http://www.nabble.com/Amp-Meter-Hookup-tp18733176p18733176.html
> >> Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
> >> Nabble.com.
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
> >> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> >> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> >> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> >>
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
> > Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> > Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> > Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> View this message in context:
> http://www.nabble.com/Amp-Meter-Hookup-tp18733176p18734049.html
>
> Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
> Nabble.com.
>
> _______________________________________________
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Re: Amp Meter Hookup

Morgan LaMoore
In reply to this post by gottdi
For a motor amp meter, I would recommend putting the shunt between B+ and
the motor.

M- is the switching node, so it will alternate between B- and B+ at the
controller switching frequency. That means the voltage on the wires from the
shunt to meter will alter between B+ and B- rapidly. An analog meter likely
won't care about the noise, but this is still less safe because there's now
two voltages present on this wire (alternating in time).

If both motor and battery shunts are at B+, they will be at the same voltage
relative to each other. If your shunts are at B- and M-, there will be a
high frequency AC voltage between them. Since your traction circuit is
isolated, proximity to traction ground isn't a factor in safety.

Either way, I'd recommend putting small fuses right at the shunt sense
terminals, just in case something shorts.

I'd recommend that you hook up a shunt to measure battery current directly
connected to the positive terminal of your battery. The other side of the
shunt connects to your contactor, fuse, and the rest of your high voltage
system. That way, it'll measure the total battery current (including DC/DC,
heater, etc) instead of just controller input battery current.

To measure motor current, I'd recommend connecting the shunt between B+ on
the controller and the positive side of the motor.

-Morgan LaMoore

On Wed, Jul 30, 2008 at 9:06 AM, gottdi <[hidden email]> wrote:

>
> By ungrounded you mean isolated and by ungrounded you mean no pack voltage
> to
> the vehicle body!
>
> My pack is isolated from the body as is my controller.
>
> So amp meters do go on the neg side. How would I install two negative side
> amp meters one for the motor and one for the controller.
>
> I have a direct neg from battery pack to controller B-.
>
> I then assume that I would put one from M- on the controller to the motor?
> Motor amps?
> I would also put one between the main pack and the controller. Battery
> amps?
>
> Just trying to get it straight.
>
> Zeke Yewdall wrote:
> >
> > This is a non-isolated shunt based ammeter, right?  Those generally go in
> > the negative side, in order to have the signal wires be very low voltage
> > compared to ground, but if it's an ungrounded traction pack like it
> should
> > be, it may not matter. I would still fuse the signal leads going from the
> > shunt to the ammeter.  And, I would put two ammeters in, on for battery
> > current, and one for motor current.
> >
> > Z
> >
> > On 7/30/08, gottdi <[hidden email]> wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >> Where should I hook up my amp meter? Off the motor or controller? How? +
> >> side
> >> or - side? Between battery pack and controller or between controller and
> >> motor? I am assuming I do not attach any thing to the negative side
> ever.
> >> Is
> >> this correct?
> >>
> >> Thanks
> >> Pete :  )
> >> --
> >> View this message in context:
> >> http://www.nabble.com/Amp-Meter-Hookup-tp18733176p18733176.html
> >> Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
> >> Nabble.com.
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
> >> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> >> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> >> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> >>
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
> > Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> > Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> > Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> View this message in context:
> http://www.nabble.com/Amp-Meter-Hookup-tp18733176p18734049.html
> Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
> Nabble.com.
>
> _______________________________________________
> General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
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>
>
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Re: Amp Meter Hookup

lyn williams
This guy has some pretty kewl panel meters (including shunts).

http://stores.ebay.com/Asia-Engineer


--
lyn williams <[hidden email]>

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Re: Amp Meter Hookup

Peter VanDerWal
> This guy has some pretty kewl panel meters (including shunts).
>
> http://stores.ebay.com/Asia-Engineer

Cheap panel meters tend to be crap.  Cheap (Asian) digital panel meters
tend to be crap squared.

I'd buy a meter from a reputable source, I.e. one of the EV parts suppliers.

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Re: Amp Meter Hookup

Zeke Yewdall
In reply to this post by Morgan LaMoore
Good point.  I forgot that most controllers switch the negative leg rather
than the positive leg... so, it would make more sense to put the shunts in
the positive leg, in that case.

Z

On Wed, Jul 30, 2008 at 8:45 AM, Morgan LaMoore <[hidden email]> wrote:

> For a motor amp meter, I would recommend putting the shunt between B+ and
> the motor.
>
> M- is the switching node, so it will alternate between B- and B+ at the
> controller switching frequency. That means the voltage on the wires from
> the
> shunt to meter will alter between B+ and B- rapidly. An analog meter likely
> won't care about the noise, but this is still less safe because there's now
> two voltages present on this wire (alternating in time).
>
> If both motor and battery shunts are at B+, they will be at the same
> voltage
> relative to each other. If your shunts are at B- and M-, there will be a
> high frequency AC voltage between them. Since your traction circuit is
> isolated, proximity to traction ground isn't a factor in safety.
>
> Either way, I'd recommend putting small fuses right at the shunt sense
> terminals, just in case something shorts.
>
> I'd recommend that you hook up a shunt to measure battery current directly
> connected to the positive terminal of your battery. The other side of the
> shunt connects to your contactor, fuse, and the rest of your high voltage
> system. That way, it'll measure the total battery current (including DC/DC,
> heater, etc) instead of just controller input battery current.
>
> To measure motor current, I'd recommend connecting the shunt between B+ on
> the controller and the positive side of the motor.
>
> -Morgan LaMoore
>
> On Wed, Jul 30, 2008 at 9:06 AM, gottdi <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> >
> > By ungrounded you mean isolated and by ungrounded you mean no pack
> voltage
> > to
> > the vehicle body!
> >
> > My pack is isolated from the body as is my controller.
> >
> > So amp meters do go on the neg side. How would I install two negative
> side
> > amp meters one for the motor and one for the controller.
> >
> > I have a direct neg from battery pack to controller B-.
> >
> > I then assume that I would put one from M- on the controller to the
> motor?
> > Motor amps?
> > I would also put one between the main pack and the controller. Battery
> > amps?
> >
> > Just trying to get it straight.
> >
> > Zeke Yewdall wrote:
> > >
> > > This is a non-isolated shunt based ammeter, right?  Those generally go
> in
> > > the negative side, in order to have the signal wires be very low
> voltage
> > > compared to ground, but if it's an ungrounded traction pack like it
> > should
> > > be, it may not matter. I would still fuse the signal leads going from
> the
> > > shunt to the ammeter.  And, I would put two ammeters in, on for battery
> > > current, and one for motor current.
> > >
> > > Z
> > >
> > > On 7/30/08, gottdi <[hidden email]> wrote:
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Where should I hook up my amp meter? Off the motor or controller? How?
> +
> > >> side
> > >> or - side? Between battery pack and controller or between controller
> and
> > >> motor? I am assuming I do not attach any thing to the negative side
> > ever.
> > >> Is
> > >> this correct?
> > >>
> > >> Thanks
> > >> Pete :  )
> > >> --
> > >> View this message in context:
> > >> http://www.nabble.com/Amp-Meter-Hookup-tp18733176p18733176.html
> > >> Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
> > >> Nabble.com.
> > >>
> > >> _______________________________________________
> > >> General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
> > >> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> > >> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> > >> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> > >>
> > >>
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
> > > Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> > > Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> > > Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > --
> > View this message in context:
> > http://www.nabble.com/Amp-Meter-Hookup-tp18733176p18734049.html
> > Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
> > Nabble.com.
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
> > Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> > Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> > Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> >
> >
> _______________________________________________
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> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
>
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Re: Amp Meter Hookup

lyn williams
In reply to this post by Peter VanDerWal

--
lyn williams <[hidden email]>

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Re: Amp Meter Hookup

Mark Grasser
Was there a message in Lyn's email?

Mark Grasser
Eliot, ME


-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf
Of lyn williams
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2008 1:04 PM
To: [hidden email]; Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Amp Meter Hookup


--
lyn williams <[hidden email]>

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Re: Amp Meter Hookup

lyn williams
In reply to this post by Peter VanDerWal
oops...I hit send entirely too quickly.

I meant to say..... EXCUSE THE FUCK OUT OF ME.

--
lyn williams <[hidden email]>

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Re: Amp Meter Hookup

Mark Grasser
Lyn, Lyn, Lyn....
Take a deep breath man.. I have had to do it many times, and then sometimes
I react like you did, well not that badly. Easy on the F words, it will get
you kicked off the list.

And over opinionated people like Peter, well you just gotta take it with a
grain of salt and if you are right and he is wrong, well, at lease you know
it to be.




Mark Grasser
Eliot, ME


-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf
Of lyn williams
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2008 1:10 PM
To: [hidden email]; Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Amp Meter Hookup

oops...I hit send entirely too quickly.

I meant to say..... EXCUSE THE F*** OUT OF ME.

--
lyn williams <[hidden email]>

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Re: Amp Meter Hookup

baknutson
In reply to this post by lyn williams
Hi... Could you please remove me from your email listing....

I really enjoy some of the info and entries but there are some interactions

and entries that really cause me some discomfort with staying...  So,

please remove me...   and I do respect the role you've played as

moderator.

 Bernie A. Knutson
224-3W-01
I. T. Operations
Tel:  (651) 733-0557
Fax:  (651) 736-3125

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Re: Amp Meter Hookup

gottdi
In reply to this post by gottdi
Aaaaaa! Heck guys. Please do not bicker over this. There is good info here and I got what I wanted and needed. Use the info and be happy. I am.
http://onegreenev.blogspot.com/
No need to wait any longer. You can now buy one off the shelf. You can still build one too.
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Re: Amp Meter Hookup

Neon John
In reply to this post by Mark Grasser
On Wed, 30 Jul 2008 13:21:24 -0400, "Mark Grasser" <[hidden email]>
wrote:

>Lyn, Lyn, Lyn....
>Take a deep breath man.. I have had to do it many times, and then sometimes
>I react like you did, well not that badly. Easy on the F words, it will get
>you kicked off the list.
>
>And over opinionated people like Peter, well you just gotta take it with a
>grain of salt and if you are right and he is wrong, well, at lease you know
>it to be.

Very true.  There are an infinite supply of wrong answers to every question
and for people like Peter who have the market cornered, well, you could spend
your whole life de-bullsh*tting just his posts.  This article addresses the
problem spot-on

http://www.apa.org/journals/features/psp7761121.pdf

Meanwhile, if your mail reader has a kill file or filter function, use it.
He's the sole occupant of my kill file for EVDL. The list has been soooo much
nicer....

John
--
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.neon-john.com
http://www.johndearmond.com <-- best little blog on the net!
Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
Alcohol, Tobacco & Firearms should be a convenience store, not a government agency.

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Re: Amp Meter Hookup

joe-22
In reply to this post by Zeke Yewdall
Motor amps is the most critical, especially if you have an Link-10 or
something to indicate aHr's remaining (state of charge).

Joseph H. Strubhar

Web: www.gremcoinc.com

E-mail: [hidden email]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Zeke Yewdall" <[hidden email]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[hidden email]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2008 7:15 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Amp Meter Hookup


> On 7/30/08, gottdi <[hidden email]> wrote:
>>
>>
>> I have a direct neg from battery pack to controller B-.
>>
>> I then assume that I would put one from M- on the controller to the
>> motor?
>> Motor amps?
>> I would also put one between the main pack and the controller. Battery
>> amps?
>>
>> Just trying to get it straight.
>
>
>
> That's what I would do.  There seem to be alot of opinions on whether
> battery amps or motor amps are more important, if you only have one
> ammeter
> instead of two.
>
> Z
>
> Zeke Yewdall wrote:
>> >
>> > This is a non-isolated shunt based ammeter, right?  Those generally go
>> > in
>> > the negative side, in order to have the signal wires be very low
>> > voltage
>> > compared to ground, but if it's an ungrounded traction pack like it
>> should
>> > be, it may not matter. I would still fuse the signal leads going from
>> > the
>> > shunt to the ammeter.  And, I would put two ammeters in, on for battery
>> > current, and one for motor current.
>> >
>> > Z
>> >
>> > On 7/30/08, gottdi <[hidden email]> wrote:
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Where should I hook up my amp meter? Off the motor or controller? How?
>> >> +
>> >> side
>> >> or - side? Between battery pack and controller or between controller
>> >> and
>> >> motor? I am assuming I do not attach any thing to the negative side
>> ever.
>> >> Is
>> >> this correct?
>> >>
>> >> Thanks
>> >> Pete :  )
>> >> --
>> >> View this message in context:
>> >> http://www.nabble.com/Amp-Meter-Hookup-tp18733176p18733176.html
>> >> Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
>> >> Nabble.com.
>> >>
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>>
>> Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
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Re: Amp Meter Hookup

joe-22
In reply to this post by Mark Grasser
No!

Joseph H. Strubhar

Web: www.gremcoinc.com

E-mail: [hidden email]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Grasser" <[hidden email]>
To: "'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'" <[hidden email]>;
<[hidden email]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2008 10:06 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Amp Meter Hookup


> Was there a message in Lyn's email?
>
> Mark Grasser
> Eliot, ME
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On
> Behalf
> Of lyn williams
> Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2008 1:04 PM
> To: [hidden email]; Electric Vehicle Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Amp Meter Hookup
>
>
> --
> lyn williams <[hidden email]>
>
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Re: Amp Meter Hookup

dave cover-2
In reply to this post by joe-22
If you have an eMeter it should be set up to monitor battery amps. I added
another shunt after my Zilla to monitor motor amps. The eMeter shunt is good
for 500 amps, the other one is good for 1000 amps, the max I expect from my
Zilla. I like being able to see what's going on. They will help find weak
points in my system.

Dave Cover

On Wed, Jul 30, 2008 at 7:59 PM, joe <[hidden email]> wrote:

> Motor amps is the most critical, especially if you have an Link-10 or
> something to indicate aHr's remaining (state of charge).
>
> Joseph H. Strubhar
>
> Web: www.gremcoinc.com
>
> E-mail: [hidden email]
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Zeke Yewdall" <[hidden email]>
> To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[hidden email]>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2008 7:15 AM
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Amp Meter Hookup
>
>
> > On 7/30/08, gottdi <[hidden email]> wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >> I have a direct neg from battery pack to controller B-.
> >>
> >> I then assume that I would put one from M- on the controller to the
> >> motor?
> >> Motor amps?
> >> I would also put one between the main pack and the controller. Battery
> >> amps?
> >>
> >> Just trying to get it straight.
> >
> >
> >
> > That's what I would do.  There seem to be alot of opinions on whether
> > battery amps or motor amps are more important, if you only have one
> > ammeter
> > instead of two.
> >
> > Z
> >
> > Zeke Yewdall wrote:
> >> >
> >> > This is a non-isolated shunt based ammeter, right?  Those generally go
> >> > in
> >> > the negative side, in order to have the signal wires be very low
> >> > voltage
> >> > compared to ground, but if it's an ungrounded traction pack like it
> >> should
> >> > be, it may not matter. I would still fuse the signal leads going from
> >> > the
> >> > shunt to the ammeter.  And, I would put two ammeters in, on for
> battery
> >> > current, and one for motor current.
> >> >
> >> > Z
> >> >
> >> > On 7/30/08, gottdi <[hidden email]> wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >> Where should I hook up my amp meter? Off the motor or controller?
> How?
> >> >> +
> >> >> side
> >> >> or - side? Between battery pack and controller or between controller
> >> >> and
> >> >> motor? I am assuming I do not attach any thing to the negative side
> >> ever.
> >> >> Is
> >> >> this correct?
> >> >>
> >> >> Thanks
> >> >> Pete :  )
> >> >> --
> >> >> View this message in context:
> >> >> http://www.nabble.com/Amp-Meter-Hookup-tp18733176p18733176.html
> >> >> Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive
> at
> >> >> Nabble.com.
> >> >>
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> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >> --
> >> View this message in context:
> >> http://www.nabble.com/Amp-Meter-Hookup-tp18733176p18734049.html
> >>
> >> Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
> >> Nabble.com.
> >>
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> > 6:37 PM
> >
> >
> >
>
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Re: Amp Meter Hookup

Peter VanDerWal
In reply to this post by gottdi

> Everyone loves useful opinions.
>

Fair enough,  There is tons of info in the archives about the problems
with  cheap panel meters.  Lots of folks have carcases sitting around that
have had the smoke let out of them.

I.e. Most need isolated power supplies.  Folks that have tried them
indicate they aren't very accurate and don't work well in EV applications
due to noise, etc.
They really don't like the noise on the cables from the battery and to the
motor, which is specifically what this thread started out discussing.

> However, It drives me nuts to see comments/reviews like "x is crap". It's
> a
> totally useless review or opinion. Much better if one were to say
> something
> like, "x quality is low because connectors seem to fall off easily, they
> melt in the sun and they are not very accurate" instead. That type of
> comment would be useful.
>
> Jerome Hansen
> San Antonio, TX
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 30, 2008 at 7:10 AM, Peter VanDerWal <[hidden email]>
> wrote:
>
>> Hey, use what you want.
>>
>> I've always thought that the point of this list was to get the opinions
>> and experience from others, if you don't want my opinions or experience,
>> filter me out.
>>
>>
>>
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>>
>



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Re: Amp Meter Hookup

Steve West-6
> I.e. Most need isolated power supplies.  Folks that have tried them
> indicate they aren't very accurate and don't work well in EV applications
> due to noise, etc.

I've ordered a cheapo ($29) digital AC ammeter like this one
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350035499921 to measure
the input current on my PFC-30. I don't need much precision - it's just so I
don't blow breakers. And a bit more reasonable than paying $300 extra.

Steve West


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