Battery load testers

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Battery load testers

Kiff Wilson
Does anyone have battery tester brand and model recommendations?
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Re: Battery load testers

damon henry

I have two models that have worked very well for me.  The first was a Suzuki GX 250 the second a Datsun 510 pickup :)  On a more serious note, there is really nothing on the market that you can go and buy that will put a battery through the type of test that an EV will put them through so you will have to be a little more specific on what you actually want to test and what you want it to test for.  Most serious testing of EV batteries require cobbling something together with a specific goal in mind.
For instance, I have spent many hours testing flooded Nicad cells.  Since I generally use the cells at 100+ amp discharges I wanted to be able to test them at similar currents.  To achieve this I use two large cables (0 gauge) with a shunt for reading amps and a large switch/contactor.  I then connect the two large cables using a piece of coat hanger to complete the circuit (the length of coat hanger determines the discharge current) and submerse the coat hanger in a bucket of water.
Basically you need to find a suitable load and appropriate instrumentation to get the job done.  Resistive loads are easy to come by but the load changes as the voltage drops, so you need a method of counting amp hours.  I have done the counting with both an ammeter and graphing the discharge current over time and devices which are built for counting amp hours like an emeter.
For loads I have used everything from wire to light bulbs to toaster ovens.


damon

> Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2012 14:06:34 -0400
> From: [hidden email]
> To: [hidden email]
> Subject: [EVDL] Battery load testers
>
> Does anyone have battery tester brand and model recommendations?
> -------------- next part --------------
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Re: Battery load testers

Kiff Wilson
If I connect a battery directly to my toaster heating elements and time how
long it takes the voltage to drop to 12.3 volts.  I could have a basis for
comparison with other batteries.  Make sense?  I would like to have a 100
amp load if possible.
 On Sep 30, 2012 7:01 PM, "damon henry" <[hidden email]> wrote:

>
> I have two models that have worked very well for me.  The first was a
> Suzuki GX 250 the second a Datsun 510 pickup :)  On a more serious note,
> there is really nothing on the market that you can go and buy that will put
> a battery through the type of test that an EV will put them through so you
> will have to be a little more specific on what you actually want to test
> and what you want it to test for.  Most serious testing of EV batteries
> require cobbling something together with a specific goal in mind.
> For instance, I have spent many hours testing flooded Nicad cells.  Since
> I generally use the cells at 100+ amp discharges I wanted to be able to
> test them at similar currents.  To achieve this I use two large cables (0
> gauge) with a shunt for reading amps and a large switch/contactor.  I then
> connect the two large cables using a piece of coat hanger to complete the
> circuit (the length of coat hanger determines the discharge current) and
> submerse the coat hanger in a bucket of water.
> Basically you need to find a suitable load and appropriate instrumentation
> to get the job done.  Resistive loads are easy to come by but the load
> changes as the voltage drops, so you need a method of counting amp hours.
>  I have done the counting with both an ammeter and graphing the discharge
> current over time and devices which are built for counting amp hours like
> an emeter.
> For loads I have used everything from wire to light bulbs to toaster ovens.
>
>
> damon
>
> > Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2012 14:06:34 -0400
> > From: [hidden email]
> > To: [hidden email]
> > Subject: [EVDL] Battery load testers
> >
> > Does anyone have battery tester brand and model recommendations?
> > -------------- next part --------------
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Re: Battery load testers

David Nelson-5
With only 12V you will need lower resistance than your toaster will
give. You may want to consider Damon's hanger in a bucket method.

On Sun, Sep 30, 2012 at 5:38 PM, Kiff Wilson <[hidden email]> wrote:
> If I connect a battery directly to my toaster heating elements and time how
> long it takes the voltage to drop to 12.3 volts.  I could have a basis for
> comparison with other batteries.  Make sense?  I would like to have a 100
> amp load if possible.
>  On Sep 30, 2012 7:01 PM, "damon henry" <[hidden email]> wrote:
>


--
David D. Nelson
http://evalbum.com/1328
http://2003gizmo.blogspot.com
http://www.levforum.com

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Re: Battery load testers

Mike Willmon
In reply to this post by damon henry
If you don't need VERY large discharge rates consider this, none other than
the "Godzilla" of load testers..... or so they claim.  I thought about
buying one of these.

But I just use one of these
http://www.amazon.com/710-Carbon-Pile-Load-Tester/dp/B000JFJLI8  all you
have to do is use the right number of cells to imitate a 12V battery.  Of
course there is no logging functionality.  Data collection is by eye and
hand, bio-optical feedback to turn the load knob to keep constant currents.

HTH
Mike

On Sun, Sep 30, 2012 at 2:59 PM, damon henry <[hidden email]> wrote:

>
> I have two models that have worked very well for me.  The first was a
> Suzuki GX 250 the second a Datsun 510 pickup :)  On a more serious note,
> there is really nothing on the market that you can go and buy that will put
> a battery through the type of test that an EV will put them through so you
> will have to be a little more specific on what you actually want to test
> and what you want it to test for.  Most serious testing of EV batteries
> require cobbling something together with a specific goal in mind.
> For instance, I have spent many hours testing flooded Nicad cells.  Since
> I generally use the cells at 100+ amp discharges I wanted to be able to
> test them at similar currents.  To achieve this I use two large cables (0
> gauge) with a shunt for reading amps and a large switch/contactor.  I then
> connect the two large cables using a piece of coat hanger to complete the
> circuit (the length of coat hanger determines the discharge current) and
> submerse the coat hanger in a bucket of water.
> Basically you need to find a suitable load and appropriate instrumentation
> to get the job done.  Resistive loads are easy to come by but the load
> changes as the voltage drops, so you need a method of counting amp hours.
>  I have done the counting with both an ammeter and graphing the discharge
> current over time and devices which are built for counting amp hours like
> an emeter.
> For loads I have used everything from wire to light bulbs to toaster ovens.
>
>
> damon
>
> > Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2012 14:06:34 -0400
> > From: [hidden email]
> > To: [hidden email]
> > Subject: [EVDL] Battery load testers
> >
> > Does anyone have battery tester brand and model recommendations?
> > -------------- next part --------------
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> > | Please take those discussions elsewhere.  Thanks.
> > |
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Re: Battery load testers

Kiff Wilson
In reply to this post by David Nelson-5
The water cools the wire and keeps it from melting?
If you connect too large a wire it will draw too much current.  Too small a
wire and it melts right?
On Sep 30, 2012 9:11 PM, "David Nelson" <[hidden email]> wrote:

> With only 12V you will need lower resistance than your toaster will
> give. You may want to consider Damon's hanger in a bucket method.
>
> On Sun, Sep 30, 2012 at 5:38 PM, Kiff Wilson <[hidden email]> wrote:
> > If I connect a battery directly to my toaster heating elements and time
> how
> > long it takes the voltage to drop to 12.3 volts.  I could have a basis
> for
> > comparison with other batteries.  Make sense?  I would like to have a 100
> > amp load if possible.
> >  On Sep 30, 2012 7:01 PM, "damon henry" <[hidden email]> wrote:
> >
>
>
> --
> David D. Nelson
> http://evalbum.com/1328
> http://2003gizmo.blogspot.com
> http://www.levforum.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> | Moratorium on drag racing discussion is in effect.
> | Please take those discussions elsewhere.  Thanks.
> |
> | REPLYING: address your message to [hidden email] only.
> | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
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Re: Battery load testers

Kiff Wilson
In reply to this post by Mike Willmon
The carbon pile tester looks interesting.  That may do the trick.  I wonder
if it uses a timer or if you can let it run as long as it takes to drop to
a given voltage.
On Sep 30, 2012 9:14 PM, "Mike Willmon" <[hidden email]> wrote:

> If you don't need VERY large discharge rates consider this, none other than
> the "Godzilla" of load testers..... or so they claim.  I thought about
> buying one of these.
>
> But I just use one of these
> http://www.amazon.com/710-Carbon-Pile-Load-Tester/dp/B000JFJLI8  all you
> have to do is use the right number of cells to imitate a 12V battery.  Of
> course there is no logging functionality.  Data collection is by eye and
> hand, bio-optical feedback to turn the load knob to keep constant currents.
>
> HTH
> Mike
>
> On Sun, Sep 30, 2012 at 2:59 PM, damon henry <[hidden email]>
> wrote:
>
> >
> > I have two models that have worked very well for me.  The first was a
> > Suzuki GX 250 the second a Datsun 510 pickup :)  On a more serious note,
> > there is really nothing on the market that you can go and buy that will
> put
> > a battery through the type of test that an EV will put them through so
> you
> > will have to be a little more specific on what you actually want to test
> > and what you want it to test for.  Most serious testing of EV batteries
> > require cobbling something together with a specific goal in mind.
> > For instance, I have spent many hours testing flooded Nicad cells.  Since
> > I generally use the cells at 100+ amp discharges I wanted to be able to
> > test them at similar currents.  To achieve this I use two large cables (0
> > gauge) with a shunt for reading amps and a large switch/contactor.  I
> then
> > connect the two large cables using a piece of coat hanger to complete the
> > circuit (the length of coat hanger determines the discharge current) and
> > submerse the coat hanger in a bucket of water.
> > Basically you need to find a suitable load and appropriate
> instrumentation
> > to get the job done.  Resistive loads are easy to come by but the load
> > changes as the voltage drops, so you need a method of counting amp hours.
> >  I have done the counting with both an ammeter and graphing the discharge
> > current over time and devices which are built for counting amp hours like
> > an emeter.
> > For loads I have used everything from wire to light bulbs to toaster
> ovens.
> >
> >
> > damon
> >
> > > Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2012 14:06:34 -0400
> > > From: [hidden email]
> > > To: [hidden email]
> > > Subject: [EVDL] Battery load testers
> > >
> > > Does anyone have battery tester brand and model recommendations?
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > URL:
> >
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/private/ev/attachments/20120930/0068243a/attachment.html
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > | Moratorium on drag racing discussion is in effect.
> > > | Please take those discussions elsewhere.  Thanks.
> > > |
> > > | REPLYING: address your message to [hidden email] only.
> > > | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
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Re: Battery load testers

Mike Willmon
It has a 15 second timer that beeps regardless of current draw. Its just a
15 second timer/beeper.  The knob is spring loaded and returns to zero when
released.  So you could hold the knob on for as long as you want.  Keep in
mind the higher the load you impose and the longer you hold it the carbon
piles get hot.  You will be able to feel them and see them.  I have done
200 amp draws for 2 minutes. 450 amp draws for 30 seconds.  But you gotta
let it cool after taxing in so.

Mike

On Sun, Sep 30, 2012 at 5:21 PM, Kiff Wilson <[hidden email]> wrote:

> The carbon pile tester looks interesting.  That may do the trick.  I wonder
> if it uses a timer or if you can let it run as long as it takes to drop to
> a given voltage.
> On Sep 30, 2012 9:14 PM, "Mike Willmon" <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> > If you don't need VERY large discharge rates consider this, none other
> than
> > the "Godzilla" of load testers..... or so they claim.  I thought about
> > buying one of these.
> >
> > But I just use one of these
> > http://www.amazon.com/710-Carbon-Pile-Load-Tester/dp/B000JFJLI8  all you
> > have to do is use the right number of cells to imitate a 12V battery.  Of
> > course there is no logging functionality.  Data collection is by eye and
> > hand, bio-optical feedback to turn the load knob to keep constant
> currents.
> >
> > HTH
> > Mike
> >
> > On Sun, Sep 30, 2012 at 2:59 PM, damon henry <[hidden email]>
> > wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > I have two models that have worked very well for me.  The first was a
> > > Suzuki GX 250 the second a Datsun 510 pickup :)  On a more serious
> note,
> > > there is really nothing on the market that you can go and buy that will
> > put
> > > a battery through the type of test that an EV will put them through so
> > you
> > > will have to be a little more specific on what you actually want to
> test
> > > and what you want it to test for.  Most serious testing of EV batteries
> > > require cobbling something together with a specific goal in mind.
> > > For instance, I have spent many hours testing flooded Nicad cells.
>  Since
> > > I generally use the cells at 100+ amp discharges I wanted to be able to
> > > test them at similar currents.  To achieve this I use two large cables
> (0
> > > gauge) with a shunt for reading amps and a large switch/contactor.  I
> > then
> > > connect the two large cables using a piece of coat hanger to complete
> the
> > > circuit (the length of coat hanger determines the discharge current)
> and
> > > submerse the coat hanger in a bucket of water.
> > > Basically you need to find a suitable load and appropriate
> > instrumentation
> > > to get the job done.  Resistive loads are easy to come by but the load
> > > changes as the voltage drops, so you need a method of counting amp
> hours.
> > >  I have done the counting with both an ammeter and graphing the
> discharge
> > > current over time and devices which are built for counting amp hours
> like
> > > an emeter.
> > > For loads I have used everything from wire to light bulbs to toaster
> > ovens.
> > >
> > >
> > > damon
> > >
> > > > Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2012 14:06:34 -0400
> > > > From: [hidden email]
> > > > To: [hidden email]
> > > > Subject: [EVDL] Battery load testers
> > > >
> > > > Does anyone have battery tester brand and model recommendations?
> > > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > > URL:
> > >
> >
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/private/ev/attachments/20120930/0068243a/attachment.html
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > | Moratorium on drag racing discussion is in effect.
> > > > | Please take those discussions elsewhere.  Thanks.
> > > > |
> > > > | REPLYING: address your message to [hidden email] only.
> > > > | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
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Re: Battery load testers

John Lussmyer
In reply to this post by Kiff Wilson
On Sun Sep 30 18:21:53 PDT 2012 [hidden email] said:
>The carbon pile tester looks interesting.  That may do the trick.  I wonder
>if it uses a timer or if you can let it run as long as it takes to drop to
>a given voltage.

I just use a big honkin cheap inverter from Harbor freight.  Plug 1000W of lights into it - and a mechanical clock.
It shuts off when the voltage drops to 10.5v, and the clock tells you how long it took.



--

Try my Sensible Email package!  https://sourceforge.net/projects/sensibleemail/
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Re: Battery load testers

RICKRUNS26
In reply to this post by Kiff Wilson
I have a very very  similar model (I think its just painted a different
color) tester. It is only  good for 10 to 15 seconds of load. It has a beeper
that goes off after 10  seconds and when you hear it your supposed to crank
off the load. The carbon  pile simply does not have the capability to
dissipate the heat generated during  a 6 KW continuous load. I would expect the
pile to burn up in short  order.

Rick

In a message dated 9/30/2012 8:23:45 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
[hidden email] writes:
The carbon pile tester looks interesting.   That may do the trick.  I wonder
if it uses a timer or if you can let it  run as long as it takes to drop to
a given voltage.
On Sep 30, 2012 9:14  PM, "Mike Willmon" <[hidden email]> wrote:

> If you  don't need VERY large discharge rates consider this, none other
than
> the  "Godzilla" of load testers..... or so they claim.  I thought about
>  buying one of these.
>
> But I just use one of these
>  http://www.amazon.com/710-Carbon-Pile-Load-Tester/dp/B000JFJLI8  all  you
> have to do is use the right number of cells to imitate a 12V  battery.  Of
> course there is no logging functionality.  Data  collection is by eye and
> hand, bio-optical feedback to turn the load  knob to keep constant
currents.  

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Re: Battery load testers

David Nelson-5
In reply to this post by Kiff Wilson
That is the idea. For automated control you could get a contactor and
a meter like one of these http://blog.evtv.me/store/products.php?cat=9
where you can have it turn off the contactor when a set voltage was
set. The Ah counter meter will give you a measure of the capacity
taken out which would be nice. Later you can install it in your car
for an Ah counter so you know how close to empty your pack is getting.

On Sun, Sep 30, 2012 at 6:16 PM, Kiff Wilson <[hidden email]> wrote:
> The water cools the wire and keeps it from melting?
> If you connect too large a wire it will draw too much current.  Too small a
> wire and it melts right?
> On Sep 30, 2012 9:11 PM, "David Nelson" <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
>> With only 12V you will need lower resistance than your toaster will
>> give. You may want to consider Damon's hanger in a bucket method.
>>


--
David D. Nelson
http://evalbum.com/1328
http://2003gizmo.blogspot.com
http://www.levforum.com

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Re: Battery load testers

Rush Dougherty
>
> That is the idea. For automated control you could get a contactor and a
> meter like one of these http://blog.evtv.me/store/products.php?cat=9
> where you can have it turn off the contactor when a set voltage was set.
The
> Ah counter meter will give you a measure of the capacity taken out which
> would be nice. Later you can install it in your car for an Ah counter so
you
> know how close to empty your pack is getting.

Or you could get the same meter at
http://www.lightobject.com/Programmable-Digital-AH-meter-Ideal-for-battery-m
onitoring-P278.aspx
for $65.

I'm sure you have a shunt somewhere that you can use or buy one from KTA
http://www.kta-ev.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=shunts.

Rush
www.TucsonEV.com




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Re: Battery load testers

Roland Wiench
In reply to this post by Kiff Wilson
Back in 2002 when I bought a new pack of 6 volt Trojans 244 AH batteries, I
look at the load testers that they had at the battery store.  They have one
that is design for a 6 volt deep cycle testing with a maximum load at 75
amps. Was a simple one that was hand held with only a bar grape volt
indicator.

I have a load tester that I made that can be use on 6 or 12 volt and is
adjustable from 75 to 600 amp.  Does not need any water or fan cooling.
Uses a 0 to 15 volt dc meter and a 800 amp dc meter, a solenoid that is use
for engine starters, a two position momentary toggle switch which is use to
turn on the solenoid which connects the positive power to the battery, a
small steel tool box or aluminum equipment box that is about 10 inches
square and 6 inches deep, a set screw strip that can hold up to 12 No. AWG 6
strand copper wires, 24 feet of No. AWG 6 insulated stranded welding wire.

Also 2 lengths of 1/8 inch diameter by 36 inch 1000 degree rating stainless
steel welding rods you can get from a welding store.  Four brass motor
terminals with bushing insulators that is from a motor shop for connected
the No. 6 AWG connection lines to the chassis box to the  battery.  I double
up the No. 6 wire per each input terminals which good for 150 amps or more.

Use a 500 amp battery clamps that you can get from a auto parts store.

Mounted the terminal strips on the inside back of the box.  Drill about
forty 1/2 holes between the terminal strip mounting for input air
ventilation.  Twenty holes near the bottom and twenty holes near the top
back section.

For 6 volt load testing at 75 amp, I cut one 36 inch welding rod and half to
18 inches long and mounted both 18 inch lengths in parallel between the
terminal strips.  I bend them back and forth to fit in a 6 inch space
between the terminal strips.

For 12 volt load testing at 75 amp, Use two full 36 inch welding rods
connected in parallel.

To set for a higher amp, just parallel more rods.

To verified what the correct load that should be use on the Trojan 6 volt
deep cycle battery, I call a battery engineer at the Trojan Company.  I ask
him what setting should I use and how long should the load bank be
connected?  I told him that I have a 600 amp rated load meter, and before I
can finish that sentence, he out load said, NO, DO NOT CONNECT ANY LOAD
METER TO THIS TYPE OF BATTERY OVER 100 AMPS !!!

He said, all you need is the 75 amp setting.  Look at the Reserve Minutes
rating at 75 amps, that what you test at.  If the battery has a Reserve
Minutes rating at 25 amps (which is a marine battery) that's what you test
at.

He gave me the AH formula to calculate the actual time of discharge down to
50% SOC which is:


                              Reserve Minutes  /  60   =   Hours

                              Hours  x  Ampere for that Reserve Minutes =
Ampere Hours

                              Ampere Hours / 2  =  Usable Ampere Hours


Example for the 6 volt 250 AH U.S. Battery I am using now - becomes:


                                  150 RM  / 60  =  2.5 hours

                                  2.5 Hrs x 75 amps = 187.5 Ampere Hours

                                  187.5 ah / 2 = 93.75 usable AH


I tested one of my 12 volt accessory batteries which is a marine battery
that is rated at 130 AH with 225 reserve minutes at a 25 amp load rating.
Connected it to a WarP-9 for a bench test run 40 minutes at 50 amps.  At 40
minutes, the voltage was just going below 10 volts and starting to drop very
fast, so I end the test.


The calculation at 25 amps becomes:

                                     225 RM  / 60 =  3.75 hours

                                     3.75 Hrs x 25 amps = 93.75 Ampere Hours

                                     93.75 ah / 2 = 46.875 usable AH or 3.75
hrs /2= 1.875 hours


 At 50 amps the usable running hours is calculated at 1.875 hrs / 2 = 0.9375
hrs or 56.25 minutes for a new battery as compare to 40 minutes for a use
battery.

Roland




----- Original Message -----
From: "Kiff Wilson" <[hidden email]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[hidden email]>
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2012 7:21 PM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Battery load testers


 The carbon pile tester looks interesting.  That may do the trick.  I wonder
 if it uses a timer or if you can let it run as long as it takes to drop to
 a given voltage.








 

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Re: Battery load testers

Lee Hart
In reply to this post by Rush Dougherty
On 9/30/2012 9:11 PM, Rush Dougherty wrote:

>>
>> That is the idea. For automated control you could get a contactor and a
>> meter like one of these http://blog.evtv.me/store/products.php?cat=9
>> where you can have it turn off the contactor when a set voltage was set.
> The
>> Ah counter meter will give you a measure of the capacity taken out which
>> would be nice. Later you can install it in your car for an Ah counter so
> you
>> know how close to empty your pack is getting.
>
> Or you could get the same meter at
> http://www.lightobject.com/Programmable-Digital-AH-meter-Ideal-for-battery-m
> onitoring-P278.aspx
> for $65.

Do you have one of these, Rush? There are no real specs on that website,
so I can't tell what its actual voltage and current range are, what
powers this meter, whether it counts amphour both up and down, what
triggers the relays mentioned, whether there is a serial data output, etc.

--
If we knew what we were doing, it wouldn't be called research, would it?
        -- Albert Einstein
--
Lee A. Hart http://www.sunrise-ev.com/LeesEVs [hidden email]

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Re: Battery load testers

Rush Dougherty
> > Or you could get the same meter at
> > http://www.lightobject.com/Programmable-Digital-AH-meter-Ideal-for-
> bat
> > tery-m
> > onitoring-P278.aspx
> > for $65.
>
> Do you have one of these, Rush? There are no real specs on that website,
so
> I can't tell what its actual voltage and current range are, what powers
this
> meter, whether it counts amphour both up and down, what triggers the
> relays mentioned, whether there is a serial data output, etc.
>
> --
> If we knew what we were doing, it wouldn't be called research, would it?
> -- Albert Einstein
> --
> Lee A. Hart http://www.sunrise-ev.com/LeesEVs [hidden email]


According to the quote above, my whole life has been research...

Lee -

I'm getting one and will let you/group know the info. From another NG, they
said that the instructions/documentation was lacking.

Rush
www.TucsonEV.com



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Re: Battery load testers

Kiff Wilson
In reply to this post by Lee Hart
Thanks for the good ideas.
 On Sep 30, 2012 11:53 PM, "Lee Hart" <[hidden email]> wrote:

> On 9/30/2012 9:11 PM, Rush Dougherty wrote:
> >>
> >> That is the idea. For automated control you could get a contactor and a
> >> meter like one of these http://blog.evtv.me/store/products.php?cat=9
> >> where you can have it turn off the contactor when a set voltage was set.
> > The
> >> Ah counter meter will give you a measure of the capacity taken out which
> >> would be nice. Later you can install it in your car for an Ah counter so
> > you
> >> know how close to empty your pack is getting.
> >
> > Or you could get the same meter at
> >
> http://www.lightobject.com/Programmable-Digital-AH-meter-Ideal-for-battery-m
> > onitoring-P278.aspx
> > for $65.
>
> Do you have one of these, Rush? There are no real specs on that website,
> so I can't tell what its actual voltage and current range are, what
> powers this meter, whether it counts amphour both up and down, what
> triggers the relays mentioned, whether there is a serial data output, etc.
>
> --
> If we knew what we were doing, it wouldn't be called research, would it?
>         -- Albert Einstein
> --
> Lee A. Hart http://www.sunrise-ev.com/LeesEVs [hidden email]
>
> _______________________________________________
> | Moratorium on drag racing discussion is in effect.
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> |
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Re: Battery load testers

damon henry

One last trick I have used for 12 volt lead acid batteries.  A high power inverter (1000 - 2000 watts) and any household appliance(s) works well.  Hook the battery up to the inverter then plug the appliance(s) in.  (Toaster ovens, curling irons, electric skillets...) Be sure you use large enough cables to feed the inverter.  Again you need some way of measuring current.  This has a couple of advantages.  First the parts are easy to find and inexpensive.  Second the inverter will almost certainly have a low voltage cut-off built in, so the test can be somewhat automated.  For example you can plug an old fashion dial clock into the inverter as well to know exactly how long the battery lasted before it hit the low voltage threshold and the inverter shutdown.  Also the current draw in this setup stays fairly constant throughout the test, so you just measure the current once, then come back when the test is over and multiply the current draw times the time on the clock and you kn!
 ow how many amp hours the battery provided.
damon

> Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2012 06:32:38 -0400
> From: [hidden email]
> To: [hidden email]
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Battery load testers
>
> Thanks for the good ideas.
>  On Sep 30, 2012 11:53 PM, "Lee Hart" <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> > On 9/30/2012 9:11 PM, Rush Dougherty wrote:
> > >>
> > >> That is the idea. For automated control you could get a contactor and a
> > >> meter like one of these http://blog.evtv.me/store/products.php?cat=9
> > >> where you can have it turn off the contactor when a set voltage was set.
> > > The
> > >> Ah counter meter will give you a measure of the capacity taken out which
> > >> would be nice. Later you can install it in your car for an Ah counter so
> > > you
> > >> know how close to empty your pack is getting.
> > >
> > > Or you could get the same meter at
> > >
> > http://www.lightobject.com/Programmable-Digital-AH-meter-Ideal-for-battery-m
> > > onitoring-P278.aspx
> > > for $65.
> >
> > Do you have one of these, Rush? There are no real specs on that website,
> > so I can't tell what its actual voltage and current range are, what
> > powers this meter, whether it counts amphour both up and down, what
> > triggers the relays mentioned, whether there is a serial data output, etc.
> >
> > --
> > If we knew what we were doing, it wouldn't be called research, would it?
> >         -- Albert Einstein
> > --
> > Lee A. Hart http://www.sunrise-ev.com/LeesEVs [hidden email]
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > | Moratorium on drag racing discussion is in effect.
> > | Please take those discussions elsewhere.  Thanks.
> > |
> > | REPLYING: address your message to [hidden email] only.
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Re: Battery load testers

Paul Guzyk
In reply to this post by Mike Willmon
I've used this digital unit from HF, works quite well with 12V batteries....it calculates battery condition using internal resistance and is handy for relative comparisons...

http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-automotive-battery-analyzer-66892.html


On Sep 30, 2012, at 7:12 PM, Mike Willmon wrote:

> If you don't need VERY large discharge rates consider this, none other than
> the "Godzilla" of load testers..... or so they claim.  I thought about
> buying one of these.


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Re: Battery load testers

Lee Hart
On 10/1/2012 7:34 AM, Paul Guzyk wrote:
> I've used this digital unit from HF, works quite well with 12V batteries....it calculates battery condition using internal resistance and is handy for relative comparisons...

Note that this type of meter doesn't actually measure anything at high
currents. It has no high power load, and no way to dissipate heat. It
only measures internal resistances, and uses that to *estimate* what the
cranking amps and amphour capacity might be.

Such testers are adequate for automotive starting batteries, but not so
good for deep cycle batteries.

--
An engineer can do for a nickel what any damn fool can do for a dollar.
        -- Henry Ford
--
Lee A. Hart http://www.sunrise-ev.com/LeesEVs [hidden email]

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Re: Battery load testers

SLPinfo.org
Kiff

Here's a simple description of a setup for testing the AH capacity of 12V
deep cycle batteries (similar to what others have described already).  I
have used it successfully to test "relative capacity" among a group f 12V
batteries.

http://www.instructables.com/id/AmpHourTest/

- Peter Flipsen Jr



On Mon, Oct 1, 2012 at 8:01 AM, Lee Hart <[hidden email]> wrote:

> On 10/1/2012 7:34 AM, Paul Guzyk wrote:
> > I've used this digital unit from HF, works quite well with 12V
> batteries....it calculates battery condition using internal resistance and
> is handy for relative comparisons...
>
> Note that this type of meter doesn't actually measure anything at high
> currents. It has no high power load, and no way to dissipate heat. It
> only measures internal resistances, and uses that to *estimate* what the
> cranking amps and amphour capacity might be.
>
> Such testers are adequate for automotive starting batteries, but not so
> good for deep cycle batteries.
>
> --
> An engineer can do for a nickel what any damn fool can do for a dollar.
>         -- Henry Ford
> --
> Lee A. Hart http://www.sunrise-ev.com/LeesEVs [hidden email]
>
> _______________________________________________
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12