Ceramic Heater elements

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Ceramic Heater elements

scott@swilkinson.com
My Spitfire EV has a very different heater box than most cars and I
can't find heater elements that will work.  The heater box has a
circular blower in the middle with skinny 2" radiators on either side.
I am looking to put 2 ceramic elements on each side to replace the
radiators.  I need elements that are about 2" wide and maybe 6" long -
1500 watts total.  

Does anybody know of a source for ceramic elements?  Or do I just need
to buy a bunch of mini tower heaters, open them up, and cross my
fingers.

Thanks,
Scott
http://www.evalbum.com/4498

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Re: Ceramic Heater elements

EVDL Administrator
On 29 Oct 2012 at 15:13, [hidden email] wrote:

>  I need elements that are about 2" wide and maybe 6" long -
> 1500 watts total.

Not to say they don't exist, but I've never seen any of those dimensions.  
You might want to consider using the factory heat exchangers and adding an
outboard electric liquid heater.

For example :

http://www.metricmind.com/category/ev-fluid-heaters/

David Roden
EVDL Administrator
http://www.evdl.org/


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Re: Ceramic Heater elements

Tim Medeck
In reply to this post by scott@swilkinson.com




A few years ago, I ran across an Emerson ceramic heater that had two 750 watt elements instead of the typical single 1500 watt element.

Perfect for my intended use.

My 1966 Corvair has 3000 watts (2 typical units) of elements for cabin heat and that works nicely even in the coldest temps that a Minnesota winter can dish out.
But, sometimes I just wanted to have a robust defroster without cranking out a lot of heat. (Like when my Chocolate Lab is on "squirrel patrol" and has his nose plastered to the inside of the windshield)

These little units fit the bill. They measure 1 3/4 inches wide by 4 3/8 inches long. (Including connector tabs)

The old Corvair has a steel dashboard, so fabricating  a couple of boxes to hold the elements and fans under the existing louvers was pretty easy.

The defrost works well, but the dog slobber on the windshield is a different story.

Anyway . . . these heaters came in a "two pack", so I have a couple of extra 750 watt elements. I'd be willing to sell them to you for my cost.

Contact me off list at [hidden email] if you're interested.

Tim


> My Spitfire EV has a very different heater box than most cars and I
> can't find heater elements that will work.  The heater box has a
> circular blower in the middle with skinny 2" radiators on either side.
> I am looking to put 2 ceramic elements on each side to replace the
> radiators.  I need elements that are about 2" wide and maybe 6" long -
> 1500 watts total.  
>
> Does anybody know of a source for ceramic elements?  Or do I just need
> to buy a bunch of mini tower heaters, open them up, and cross my
> fingers.
>
> Thanks,
> Scott


     
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Re: Ceramic Heater elements

Mike Willmon
In reply to this post by EVDL Administrator
Scott wrote:
">  I need elements that are about 2" wide and maybe 6" long -
> 1500 watts total."

Thats typically the size the elements are that come out of the cheap $15
cube heaters at Walmart, except that they usually have four or five of them
glued together to make a 6" x 6" square panel that totals ~1500 watts.
 They could be separated if you only wanted one section for 200 - 300
watts.  But the full square units are usually rated for 1500 watts, which
is max from a 110VAC outlet.

In my truck I have one of these that has four elements, which fits nicely
into the existing (gutted) heater core.  I switch on 2 for low and all four
for high.  with my 180V pack I get about 400W draw from the pack on low and
800W draw from the pack on high.

You can see images of it installed into the core here
http://www.evalbum.com/756

HTH

Mike



On Mon, Oct 29, 2012 at 3:28 PM, EVDL Administrator <[hidden email]> wrote:

> On 29 Oct 2012 at 15:13, [hidden email] wrote:
>
> >  I need elements that are about 2" wide and maybe 6" long -
> > 1500 watts total.
>
> Not to say they don't exist, but I've never seen any of those dimensions.
> You might want to consider using the factory heat exchangers and adding an
> outboard electric liquid heater.
>
> For example :
>
> http://www.metricmind.com/category/ev-fluid-heaters/
>
> David Roden
> EVDL Administrator
> http://www.evdl.org/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> | Moratorium on drag racing discussion is in effect.
> | Please take those discussions elsewhere.  Thanks.
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Re: Ceramic Heater elements

Daniel Busby
Scott,

I am currently putting in some heater elements in my Spitfire EV heater
box.  To solve the problem you could either cut off 2/5ths of heater
material of two separate typical elements.  Or get a space heater like
mine, which has two smaller elements.  Check it out:
http://www.o.biz/Obiz/Holmes-Patton-Viziheat-1500-watt-Twin-Ceramic-Space-Heater/3506712/product.html

Just yesterday I pulled apart my heater box and set them in for a dry fit.
 They fit perfectly.  By looking at the switches I can tell that they wired
up half of each element for "low" and both halves of each element for high.
 That should work just fine.  I also salvaged some things that look like
thermal fuses for some extra safety.

I really only need my defrost to work down here in LA.  I've put it off for
years but I'm finally going to do it!  I'm tired of carrying a rag to wipe
off the windshield so I can see.

-D



On Mon, Oct 29, 2012 at 5:09 PM, Mike Willmon <[hidden email]>wrote:

> Scott wrote:
> ">  I need elements that are about 2" wide and maybe 6" long -
> > 1500 watts total."
>
> Thats typically the size the elements are that come out of the cheap $15
> cube heaters at Walmart, except that they usually have four or five of them
> glued together to make a 6" x 6" square panel that totals ~1500 watts.
>  They could be separated if you only wanted one section for 200 - 300
> watts.  But the full square units are usually rated for 1500 watts, which
> is max from a 110VAC outlet.
>
> In my truck I have one of these that has four elements, which fits nicely
> into the existing (gutted) heater core.  I switch on 2 for low and all four
> for high.  with my 180V pack I get about 400W draw from the pack on low and
> 800W draw from the pack on high.
>
> You can see images of it installed into the core here
> http://www.evalbum.com/756
>
> HTH
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> On Mon, Oct 29, 2012 at 3:28 PM, EVDL Administrator <[hidden email]>
> wrote:
>
> > On 29 Oct 2012 at 15:13, [hidden email] wrote:
> >
> > >  I need elements that are about 2" wide and maybe 6" long -
> > > 1500 watts total.
> >
> > Not to say they don't exist, but I've never seen any of those dimensions.
> > You might want to consider using the factory heat exchangers and adding
> an
> > outboard electric liquid heater.
> >
> > For example :
> >
> > http://www.metricmind.com/category/ev-fluid-heaters/
> >
> > David Roden
> > EVDL Administrator
> > http://www.evdl.org/
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > | Moratorium on drag racing discussion is in effect.
> > | Please take those discussions elsewhere.  Thanks.
> > |
> > | REPLYING: address your message to [hidden email] only.
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Re: Ceramic Heater elements

Bill Dube
In reply to this post by Mike Willmon
Instead of cutting up the old heater core, I bent up a sheet metal
holder/spacer for the ceramic element. This was the same overall size
as the heater core, and had holes in the right place for the ceramic
element. Kind of like a metal picture frame, if you can imagine.

It is likely that Scott could fashion a holder, perhaps sheet metal,
that positioned a standard ceramic element at a diagonal so it would
fit inside the heater housing. It does not have to fit exactly in the
same place as the original heater core. It just has to fit in a way
that the air is forced through it.

Bill D.



At 06:09 PM 10/29/2012, you wrote:

>Scott wrote:
>">  I need elements that are about 2" wide and maybe 6" long -
> > 1500 watts total."
>
>Thats typically the size the elements are that come out of the cheap $15
>cube heaters at Walmart, except that they usually have four or five of them
>glued together to make a 6" x 6" square panel that totals ~1500 watts.
>  They could be separated if you only wanted one section for 200 - 300
>watts.  But the full square units are usually rated for 1500 watts, which
>is max from a 110VAC outlet.
>
>In my truck I have one of these that has four elements, which fits nicely
>into the existing (gutted) heater core.  I switch on 2 for low and all four
>for high.  with my 180V pack I get about 400W draw from the pack on low and
>800W draw from the pack on high.
>
>You can see images of it installed into the core here
>http://www.evalbum.com/756
>
>HTH
>
>Mike
>
>
>
>On Mon, Oct 29, 2012 at 3:28 PM, EVDL Administrator <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> > On 29 Oct 2012 at 15:13, [hidden email] wrote:
> >
> > >  I need elements that are about 2" wide and maybe 6" long -
> > > 1500 watts total.
> >
> > Not to say they don't exist, but I've never seen any of those dimensions.
> > You might want to consider using the factory heat exchangers and adding an
> > outboard electric liquid heater.
> >
> > For example :
> >
> > http://www.metricmind.com/category/ev-fluid-heaters/
> >
> > David Roden
> > EVDL Administrator
> > http://www.evdl.org/
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > | Moratorium on drag racing discussion is in effect.
> > | Please take those discussions elsewhere.  Thanks.
> > |
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Re: Ceramic Heater elements

Randy
We have sold over 2,000 of the ceramic heater cores.
I like to mount the core to a piece of 1/4" or 3/16"  ABS plastic and
cut the outside shape of the plastic to fit into the heater box where
the old liquid element was removed.
I like plastic because the heater element surface is electrically "hot"
so you have to be careful how you mount them.
It also does not matter where in the system you mount the heater element.
On many vehicles we mount it in the blower system before the old element
so we don't have to rip the dash out. Just cut a neat slot in the blower
duct work and slide the heater up into the air flow. Just be sure to
make the heater mounting plate a snug fit to the duct wall so you don't
get cold air bypassing the element.
Some cars now have pollen filters on the inlet to the blow and these
make an easy heater installation. Just remove the pollen filter and
replace it with the heater element on the ABS cut to the same size as
the old filter.
On the Toyota Echo the filter slides out of the duct and the heater
slides back in.
You don't always have to pull the old liquid core, just get inventive
with element location.
We also use the Albright SW60B contactor for the heater, its rated for
DC and does not need any added snubbers or other stuff.
Lots of conversions need two elements so we mount them side by side and
power half of the element sections in each core from one contactor and
the rest of the sections from a second contactor. That way you don't
have one element passing cold air when the system is on low.


BFN
Randy

On 29/10/2012 8:10 PM, Bill Dube wrote:

> Instead of cutting up the old heater core, I bent up a sheet metal
> holder/spacer for the ceramic element. This was the same overall size
> as the heater core, and had holes in the right place for the ceramic
> element. Kind of like a metal picture frame, if you can imagine.
>
> It is likely that Scott could fashion a holder, perhaps sheet metal,
> that positioned a standard ceramic element at a diagonal so it would
> fit inside the heater housing. It does not have to fit exactly in the
> same place as the original heater core. It just has to fit in a way
> that the air is forced through it.
>
> Bill D.
>
>
>
> At 06:09 PM 10/29/2012, you wrote:
>> Scott wrote:
>> ">  I need elements that are about 2" wide and maybe 6" long -
>>> 1500 watts total."
>> Thats typically the size the elements are that come out of the cheap $15
>> cube heaters at Walmart, except that they usually have four or five of them
>> glued together to make a 6" x 6" square panel that totals ~1500 watts.
>>   They could be separated if you only wanted one section for 200 - 300
>> watts.  But the full square units are usually rated for 1500 watts, which
>> is max from a 110VAC outlet.
>>
>> In my truck I have one of these that has four elements, which fits nicely
>> into the existing (gutted) heater core.  I switch on 2 for low and all four
>> for high.  with my 180V pack I get about 400W draw from the pack on low and
>> 800W draw from the pack on high.
>>
>> You can see images of it installed into the core here
>> http://www.evalbum.com/756
>>
>> HTH
>>
>> Mike
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Oct 29, 2012 at 3:28 PM, EVDL Administrator <[hidden email]> wrote:
>>
>>> On 29 Oct 2012 at 15:13, [hidden email] wrote:
>>>
>>>>   I need elements that are about 2" wide and maybe 6" long -
>>>> 1500 watts total.
>>> Not to say they don't exist, but I've never seen any of those dimensions.
>>> You might want to consider using the factory heat exchangers and adding an
>>> outboard electric liquid heater.
>>>
>>> For example :
>>>
>>> http://www.metricmind.com/category/ev-fluid-heaters/
>>>
>>> David Roden
>>> EVDL Administrator
>>> http://www.evdl.org/
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> | Moratorium on drag racing discussion is in effect.
>>> | Please take those discussions elsewhere.  Thanks.
>>> |
>>> | REPLYING: address your message to [hidden email] only.
>>> | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
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Re: Ceramic Heater elements

David Ladd
How do these electric heater elements deal with different voltages?  My EV is 153v nominal right now(charged to 168v) and I'm planning to raise that to 182v nominal (200v charged).  Will I need to do anything special with the heater element, or will it self adjust?  Will it pull more current or less?  Right now it pulls ~17a at 158ish volts and heats me up real well.

david.
http://www.evalbum.com/4021

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Re: Ceramic Heater elements

Lee Hart
On 10/30/2012 9:04 AM, David Ladd wrote:
> How do these electric heater elements deal with different voltages?
> My EV is 153v nominal right now(charged to 168v) and I'm planning to
> raise that to 182v nominal (200v charged).  Will I need to do
> anything special with the heater element, or will it self adjust?
> Will it pull more current or less?  Right now it pulls ~17a at 158ish
> volts and heats me up real well.

These ceramic elements self adjust over about a +/20% range. I.e. you
can use a 120v element at 140v, but that's about the most you dare try.
Higher than this, and it will have a short life and could have a bad
failure mode.

Note that the advertised "1500w" is the *peak* power they can handle.
They actually run at more like 900-1000w continuous duty. Your 17a at
158v is over 2600 watts, which is well beyond their ratings. I would
expect a short life and impressive failure at this level.

Almost all of these heater physically consist of 4 separate elements,
which can be connected all in parallel (for 120v) or in series pairs
(for 240v). I would suggest wiring them for 240v in your case. Then use
*two* of them to get the desired amount of heat. This will greatly
reduce the stress on them, for a longer life and safer operation.

--
Humanity is acquiring all the right technology for all the wrong
reasons. -- R. Buckminster Fuller
--
Lee A. Hart http://www.sunrise-ev.com/LeesEVs [hidden email]

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Re: Ceramic Heater elements

Lee Hart
In reply to this post by Bill Dube
On 10/29/2012 9:10 PM, Bill Dube wrote:
> Instead of cutting up the old heater core, I bent up a sheet metal
> holder/spacer for the ceramic element.

How did you mount the heating element to your sheet metal? The ceramic
elements I've seen are metal, and the metal is electrically "live". They
depend on a plastic molded part (unique to each heater) to keep them
from shorting to ground.

Note: Ceramic elements limit their own temperature; the hotter they get,
the higher their resistance. If the voltage isn't too high, they
self-limit to a temperature around 200 deg.C. However, many of the cheap
120vac heaters use such a crappy plastic that it will melt or burn if
the element gets this hot!

They can also get hot enough to set fire to leaves, paper, plastic, and
other debris that might get sucked into the heater's air intake. The
auto companies also use plastics for the ductwork and dashboard that
will melt or even burn at the temperatures a ceramic heater can reach if
the airflow is blocked. Watch out for this!

Finally, the thermal fuses and cutouts provided on a 120vac heater *will
not* open the circuit if used on high voltage DC!
--
Ingenuity gets you through times of no money better than money
will get you through times of no ingenuity. -- Terry Pratchett
--
Lee A. Hart http://www.sunrise-ev.com/LeesEVs [hidden email]

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Re: Ceramic Heater elements

Mike Willmon
Lee in case you ask that question to me I kept the phenolic plenum/shroud
that came with the old cube heater. Fit the element into it and then fit
that assembly into the old core that I routed out.  All those Cooper fins
made a mess when I cut them out.

Mike
On Oct 30, 2012 8:05 AM, "Lee Hart" <[hidden email]> wrote:

> On 10/29/2012 9:10 PM, Bill Dube wrote:
> > Instead of cutting up the old heater core, I bent up a sheet metal
> > holder/spacer for the ceramic element.
>
> How did you mount the heating element to your sheet metal? The ceramic
> elements I've seen are metal, and the metal is electrically "live". They
> depend on a plastic molded part (unique to each heater) to keep them
> from shorting to ground.
>
> Note: Ceramic elements limit their own temperature; the hotter they get,
> the higher their resistance. If the voltage isn't too high, they
> self-limit to a temperature around 200 deg.C. However, many of the cheap
> 120vac heaters use such a crappy plastic that it will melt or burn if
> the element gets this hot!
>
> They can also get hot enough to set fire to leaves, paper, plastic, and
> other debris that might get sucked into the heater's air intake. The
> auto companies also use plastics for the ductwork and dashboard that
> will melt or even burn at the temperatures a ceramic heater can reach if
> the airflow is blocked. Watch out for this!
>
> Finally, the thermal fuses and cutouts provided on a 120vac heater *will
> not* open the circuit if used on high voltage DC!
> --
> Ingenuity gets you through times of no money better than money
> will get you through times of no ingenuity. -- Terry Pratchett
> --
> Lee A. Hart http://www.sunrise-ev.com/LeesEVs [hidden email]
>
> _______________________________________________
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Re: Ceramic Heater elements

Lee Hart
On 10/30/2012 10:19 AM, Mike Willmon wrote:
> Lee in case you ask that question to me I kept the phenolic plenum/shroud
> that came with the old cube heater. Fit the element into it and then fit
> that assembly into the old core that I routed out.  All those Cooper fins
> made a mess when I cut them out.

Phenolic would be a good material to use. It's nonconductive, and won't
burn or melt.

--
A designer knows he has achieved perfection not when there is
nothing left to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.
        -- Antoine de Saint Exupéry
--
Lee A. Hart http://www.sunrise-ev.com/LeesEVs [hidden email]

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Re: Ceramic Heater elements

David Ladd
In reply to this post by Lee Hart
>These ceramic elements self adjust over about a +/20% range. I.e. you can use a 120v element at 140v, but that's about the most you dare try. Higher than this, and it will have a short life and could have a bad failure mode.
>
>Note that the advertised "1500w" is the *peak* power they can handle. They actually run at more like 900-1000w continuous duty. Your 17a at 158v is over 2600 watts, which is well beyond their ratings. I would expect a short life and impressive failure at this level.

OK, thanks!  I guess the good news is I rarely use the heater, and never for more than 5 minutes at a time...  playing with fire I guess though.  It would be even worse at 185v right?

>Almost all of these heater physically consist of 4 separate elements, which can be connected all in parallel (for 120v) or in series pairs (for 240v). I would suggest wiring them for 240v in your case. Then use *two* of them to get the desired amount of heat. This will greatly reduce the stress on them, for a longer life and safer operation.


Right now there are two elements already in the dash wired in parallel.  I've never used the second one, it would be too much heat (and power use).  So if I go into the dash and rewire the elements into series pairs, and leave the two elements in parallel, I could use both elements at 185v safely?  It would be underpowered, but with two elements maybe it would match what I have right now with one element running overloaded?  Bummer to have to pull the dash out to get to the wiring, but at least the two elements are already in there.

Thanks,
David.


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Re: Ceramic Heater elements

Randy
In reply to this post by Lee Hart
The elements that we have used for the last 20 years have a very high
tolerance for over voltage.
I have many customers running them at 192 or even 220 volt systems, some
of them for over 10 years. Just don't try this with a cheapo one.
Your 17 amps @ 156 volts is scarey, should be closer to 10 amps.
We also have a special low voltage element for 72 - 120 volt systems
like the AC50/75 system, the 120V ones put out very little heat below
130 volts DC.
We also have a 240 - 300 volt element for high voltage applications.

BFN
Randy

n 10/30/2012 9:04 AM, David Ladd wrote:
>> How do these electric heater elements deal with different voltages?
>> My EV is 153v nominal right now(charged to 168v) and I'm planning to
>> raise that to 182v nominal (200v charged).  Will I need to do
>> anything special with the heater element, or will it self adjust?
>> Will it pull more current or less?  Right now it pulls ~17a at 158ish
>>

--
Randy Holmquist

Canadian Electric Vehicles Ltd

250-954-2230

http://www.canev.com/

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Re: Ceramic Heater elements

Lee Hart
On 10/30/2012 3:22 PM, Randy Holmquist wrote:
> The elements that we have used for the last 20 years have a very high
> tolerance for over voltage.
> I have many customers running them at 192 or even 220 volt systems, some
> of them for over 10 years. Just don't try this with a cheapo one.

That's an excellent point, Randy. I was referring to the cheap ones
found in a typical imported heater. Not surprisingly, they are built as
cheap as possible, with just enough safety margin to barely get by at 120v.

--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget your perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in.
        -- Leonard Cohen, from "Anthem"
--
Lee A. Hart http://www.sunrise-ev.com/LeesEVs [hidden email]

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Re: Ceramic Heater elements

David Ladd
In reply to this post by Randy
You have me suitably worried now!  I'll definitely strip out the ducting and see what I've got in there.  The downside of buying already converted I guess...

thanks for the info,
David.

>________________________________
> From: Randy Holmquist <[hidden email]>
>To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <[hidden email]>
>Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2012 2:22 PM
>Subject: Re: [EVDL] Ceramic Heater elements
>
>The elements that we have used for the last 20 years have a very high
>tolerance for over voltage.
>I have many customers running them at 192 or even 220 volt systems, some
>of them for over 10 years. Just don't try this with a cheapo one.
>Your 17 amps @ 156 volts is scarey, should be closer to 10 amps.
>We also have a special low voltage element for 72 - 120 volt systems
>like the AC50/75 system, the 120V ones put out very little heat below
>130 volts DC.
>We also have a 240 - 300 volt element for high voltage applications.
>
>BFN
>Randy
>

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Re: Ceramic Heater elements

Bill Dube
Bore scope might be easier and cheaper, not to mention more fun.


At 05:06 PM 10/30/2012, you wrote:

>You have me suitably worried now!  I'll definitely strip out the
>ducting and see what I've got in there.  The downside of buying
>already converted I guess...
>
>thanks for the info,
>David.
>
> >________________________________
> > From: Randy Holmquist <[hidden email]>
> >To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <[hidden email]>
> >Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2012 2:22 PM
> >Subject: Re: [EVDL] Ceramic Heater elements
> >
> >The elements that we have used for the last 20 years have a very high
> >tolerance for over voltage.
> >I have many customers running them at 192 or even 220 volt systems, some
> >of them for over 10 years. Just don't try this with a cheapo one.
> >Your 17 amps @ 156 volts is scarey, should be closer to 10 amps.
> >We also have a special low voltage element for 72 - 120 volt systems
> >like the AC50/75 system, the 120V ones put out very little heat below
> >130 volts DC.
> >We also have a 240 - 300 volt element for high voltage applications.
> >
> >BFN
> >Randy
> >
>
>_______________________________________________
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Re: Ceramic Heater elements

tomw
This post was updated on .
In reply to this post by David Ladd
kta-ev sells a few different model heater cores for different voltage operation.  I was first sent one of the higher voltage ones by mistake and can verify that it put out very little heat with a nominal 115V pack.

I currently use two cores taken out of heaters purchased at Lowes.  Together they put out about 3100W.  I bench tested running a heater core with the original fan mounted about an inch above it, and resting on a frame of a few different plastics.  Tested with fan off and on.  Two melted, but teflon, with a working temperature of 500 F, did not so I used it.  This will be it's third winter.
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Re: Ceramic Heater elements

Martin WINLOW
Hi Tom (and anyone else this is relevant to),

Your (and others') input on this subject is very useful but it would be even more so if you could include a link to either a photo of the heater you used prior to cannibalising it or a link to the manufacturer or retailer's relevant product page.  That way we can all see exactly which product you used, benefit from your experimentation and know that if we buy the same unit we can get the same success.  This will still probably be true even allowing for the fact that you bought it in the US and other people are elsewhere in the world as these things are often designed for a world market and obtainable anywhere albeit re-badged to a different 'maker'.

I don't want to take business away from EVSource, CANEV, KTA etc but lots of us are on a very tight budget - isn't that one of the main reasons we are into EVs in the first place?

MW


On 31 Oct 2012, at 14:06, tomw wrote:

> kta-ev sells a few different model heater cores for different voltage
> operation.  I was first sent one of the higher voltage ones by mistake and
> can verify that it put out very little heat with a nominal 115V pack.
>
> I currently use two cores taken out of heaters purchased at Lowes.  Together
> they put out about 3100W.  I bench tested running a heater core with the
> original fan mounted about an inch above it, and resting on a frame of a few
> different plastics.  Tested with fan off and on.  Two melted, but teflon,
> with a working temperature of 500 F, did not so I used it.  This will be
> it's fourth winter.
>



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Re: Ceramic Heater elements

tomw
Link to photos in my build thread at diyelectriccar:

http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=203777&postcount=599

I should have mentioned that kta-ev replaced the original core with one for lower voltage.  I've always found them easy to deal with.  However, since I had to pull the dash to replace the heater core I wanted to ensure it worked well the next time, so I went with two heaters.  The core from kta was too large to fit two of them, but considerably smaller than the original core.
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