Curti.. Duh

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Curti.. Duh

jwolfe@doitnow.com
From: "Bob Rice" <>
To: <[hidden email]>
Subject: Curti

   Believe it or not I'm, first time, hooking up a Curtis(Cursit)
Controller, the 72-120 volt one,
 This is what they, Curtii, like?...  IE I can hook it up so I can provide
90 volts when I turn the key on, to make it work.

   I'm always a bit skittish with this stuff as sytuff can go POOF@$$$$$$$
if yur not careful! ... the power wiring is scary to me<g>!

So DID I overlook stuff that is a DUH! thing??

    Bob

Tape off or heatshrink the A2 connection to insure that you don't get the
idea that it needs something connected to it. (Ignore that part of the
Cursit wiring diagram)

.. And be sure you have at least a resister for a pre-charge or the caps in
the controller will be somewhat shall we say "Stressed" each time you turn
it on. Without the precharge they will fail, it may take many starts but
they WILL fail.

Jim
http://www.evalbum/804
 


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Re: Curti.. Duh

storm connors
And a 60w lightbulb makes a great current limiter for the precharge.
(Have I said that before?)  :-)

On Dec 20, 2007 4:16 PM, [hidden email] <[hidden email]> wrote:

> From: "Bob Rice" <>
> To: <[hidden email]>
> Subject: Curti
>
>    Believe it or not I'm, first time, hooking up a Curtis(Cursit)
> Controller, the 72-120 volt one,
>  This is what they, Curtii, like?...  IE I can hook it up so I can provide
> 90 volts when I turn the key on, to make it work.
>
>    I'm always a bit skittish with this stuff as sytuff can go POOF@$$$$$$$
> if yur not careful! ... the power wiring is scary to me<g>!
>
> So DID I overlook stuff that is a DUH! thing??
>
>     Bob
>
> Tape off or heatshrink the A2 connection to insure that you don't get the
> idea that it needs something connected to it. (Ignore that part of the
> Cursit wiring diagram)
>
> .. And be sure you have at least a resister for a pre-charge or the caps in
> the controller will be somewhat shall we say "Stressed" each time you turn
> it on. Without the precharge they will fail, it may take many starts but
> they WILL fail.
>
> Jim
> http://www.evalbum/804
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> mail2web LIVE – Free email based on Microsoft(R) Exchange technology -
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>
>
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> For subscription options, see
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>



--
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/1059
http://stormselectric.blogspot.com/
Storm

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Re: Curti.. Duh

joe-22
In reply to this post by jwolfe@doitnow.com
Am I understanding you correctly, that the circuit diagram for the Cursit is
incorrect? It seems to me that I have heard that on here before. The Dodge
Dakota I am working on has a Cursit 1221B, so I need to know for sure!

Joseph H. Strubhar

Web: www.gremcoinc.com

E-mail: [hidden email]
----- Original Message -----
From: <[hidden email]>
To: <[hidden email]>
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 1:16 PM
Subject: [EVDL] Curti.. Duh


From: "Bob Rice" <>
To: <[hidden email]>
Subject: Curti

   Believe it or not I'm, first time, hooking up a Curtis(Cursit)
Controller, the 72-120 volt one,
 This is what they, Curtii, like?...  IE I can hook it up so I can provide
90 volts when I turn the key on, to make it work.

   I'm always a bit skittish with this stuff as sytuff can go POOF@$$$$$$$
if yur not careful! ... the power wiring is scary to me<g>!

So DID I overlook stuff that is a DUH! thing??

    Bob

Tape off or heatshrink the A2 connection to insure that you don't get the
idea that it needs something connected to it. (Ignore that part of the
Cursit wiring diagram)

.. And be sure you have at least a resister for a pre-charge or the caps in
the controller will be somewhat shall we say "Stressed" each time you turn
it on. Without the precharge they will fail, it may take many starts but
they WILL fail.

Jim
http://www.evalbum/804



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2:14 PM


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Re: Curti.. Duh

Bob Rice-2
  Hi Guyz;

    Thanks for the More Useful ideas than the #$%^ Cursit manual. Ya say
tape up A-2? OK I'll try it THAT way tomorrow. Looks like B-PLUS gets a
Motor lead too? It SHOULD go, that way? It didn't with the 2 motor leads on
M- and A-2!I'll dick around with it LATER this AM. A 60 watt litebulb across
the main contactor SHOULD help with the Precharge, too?Cursit calls for a
250 ohm 5 watt resister. It SEZ. Guess that is small, Radio Crap should have
those?

    I got my line switch contacter to pull in when ya twist the potbox, It
SHOULDA run , applying 90 volts minus to the top spade thing.I don't think
it would care that my line switch is between Neg side, an' B-1 of the
battery, it was just comveniemt for component mounting.

    Seeya

     Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "joe" <[hidden email]>
To: <[hidden email]>; "Electric Vehicle Discussion List"
<[hidden email]>
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 12:37 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Curti.. Duh


Am I understanding you correctly, that the circuit diagram for the Cursit is
incorrect? It seems to me that I have heard that on here before. The Dodge
Dakota I am working on has a Cursit 1221B, so I need to know for sure!

Joseph H. Strubhar

Web: www.gremcoinc.com

E-mail: [hidden email]
----- Original Message -----
From: <[hidden email]>
To: <[hidden email]>
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 1:16 PM
Subject: [EVDL] Curti.. Duh


From: "Bob Rice" <>
To: <[hidden email]>
Subject: Curti

   Believe it or not I'm, first time, hooking up a Curtis(Cursit)
Controller, the 72-120 volt one,
 This is what they, Curtii, like?...  IE I can hook it up so I can provide
90 volts when I turn the key on, to make it work.

   I'm always a bit skittish with this stuff as sytuff can go POOF@$$$$$$$
if yur not careful! ... the power wiring is scary to me<g>!

So DID I overlook stuff that is a DUH! thing??

    Bob

Tape off or heatshrink the A2 connection to insure that you don't get the
idea that it needs something connected to it. (Ignore that part of the
Cursit wiring diagram)

.. And be sure you have at least a resister for a pre-charge or the caps in
the controller will be somewhat shall we say "Stressed" each time you turn
it on. Without the precharge they will fail, it may take many starts but
they WILL fail.

Jim
http://www.evalbum/804



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Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.5/1191 - Release Date: 12/20/2007
2:14 PM


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Re: Curti.. Duh

storm connors
On Dec 21, 2007 2:39 AM, Bob Rice <[hidden email]> wrote:
 A 60 watt litebulb across
> the main contactor SHOULD help with the Precharge, too?Cursit calls for a
> 250 ohm 5 watt resister. It SEZ. Guess that is small, Radio Crap should have
> those?



Bob, I don't know what "across the main contactor" means, but whatever
thin wire carrying high voltage to the controller (supplies the
precharge) should have the bulb in series. When activated, the light
will come up to full brilliance then slowly dim out as the caps
charge. Since I put a contactor on the negative side of the pack, the
light lights each time I turn the car on.
Hope this clarifies.
storm

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Re: Curti.. Duh

Lee Hart
In reply to this post by Bob Rice-2
Bob Rice wrote:
> Thanks for the More Useful ideas than the #$%^ Cursit manual.

To be fair, Curtis is giving you the *minimum* amount of wiring needed
to get it going. That's all that most people want.

All these extra suggestions are improvements, to make it work better or
safer or more reliably.

> Ya say tape up A-2? OK I'll try it THAT way tomorrow.

A2 is there for plug braking. It provides a small amount of "engine
braking" and works fine in a small light EV. If you want it, wire it as
shown in their manual. It requires a reversing contactor to work. If
you're using a transmission for reversing, leave A2 unused.

> Looks like B-PLUS gets a motor lead too?

Right!

> A 60 watt litebulb across the main contactor SHOULD help with the
> Precharge, too? Cursit calls for a 250 ohm 5 watt resister.

Both work fine. A light bulb *is* a resistor; it just happens to be
cheaper and lights up in the dark :-)

> I got my line switch contacter to pull in when ya twist the potbox

Yes, that's the normal Curtis-recommended setup. The precharge resistor
keeps the controller ready. The main contactor is off when the throttle
is fully released, and turns on each time you step on the "gas". It
makes a click-clunk, but the contacts aren't switching any power and so
last forever. If the controller ever fails full-on, releasing the gas
pedal is all it takes to drop the main contactor and stop the fun.

You should have a smaller relay or switch to turn off the precharge
resistor when parked or charging, too. Otherwise, the controller is
powered all the time.

Be sure to include a main fuse or circuit breaker!

> applying 90 volts minus to the top spade thing.

The KSI pin goes to pack positive; not negative. Put a very small fuse
in this line (it draws less than 0.05 amps).

The two potbox pins go (of course) to the potbox *and nowhere else*!
Don't accidentally connect pack positive to either potbox pins, or
goodbye controller!

> I don't think it would care that my line switch is between Neg side,
> an' B-1 of the battery, it was just comvenient for component
> mounting.

No; probably not. It's more common to put it in the positive B+ lead,
though.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in    --    Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net

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Re: Curti.. Duh

storm connors
My contactor was on the positive lead to the controller, but I added a
second contactor on the negative lead as was suggested by many on the
list. This effectively turns off the precharge circuit and isolates
the controller from charging voltage.


>
>
> You should have a smaller relay or switch to turn off the precharge
> resistor when parked or charging, too. Otherwise, the controller is
> powered all the time.
>
>

>
> > I don't think it would care that my line switch is between Neg side,
> > an' B-1 of the battery, it was just comvenient for component
> > mounting.
>
> No; probably not. It's more common to put it in the positive B+ lead,
> though.
> --
> Ring the bells that still can ring
> Forget the perfect offering
> There is a crack in everything
> That's how the light gets in    --    Leonard Cohen
> --
> Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>



--
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/1059
http://stormselectric.blogspot.com/
Storm

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