Lee Hart's Batt-Bridge

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Lee Hart's Batt-Bridge

Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list
 I am assembling a few Batt-Bridges.
In the description it specifies D2 & D3 are "red high-efficiency LED" & D1 is just a green LED.

...in the written description down below it says: "Use an ordinary low brightness green" & "the red LED's should be high brightness types -- the brighter the better, so you can see them even in daylight.

So, we have

...a. "red high-efficiency LED"

...b. "the red LED's should be high-brightness types"

...c. looking on-line I have found LED's labeled as "ultra bright"

All say about the same thing (I think) but, it's NOT CRYSTAL CLEAR for the lay person (your average DIY guy or gal)


So,
...for the record, which LED's are the "right" ones for building a Batt-Bridge?

Also,
...what is the "proper" size/gauge wire to be used on Batt-Bridges?

(It will carry pack voltage but, only ~10 - 20ma)
Thanks,          Kevin      Functional Artist to use?
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Re: Lee Hart's Batt-Bridge

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Kevin,
All modern LEDs are (ultra) high brightness
and "high efficiency" is another term for the same thing.
In fact, it will be difficult to find the old low-brightness LEDs
for the green, so you might need to accept that green will also
be very bright. It does not make a difference for the operation of the bridge,
since the operating voltage of a LED is determined by its material, which is
different for each color, so LEDs on the RED end of the spectrum have the lowest
operating voltage (infrared even lower) while LEDs on the green/blue end of the
spectrum have the higest operating voltage.
This is independent of being a high brightness or efficient LED, that just tells that
the LED turns more current into light.
The short is - buy any red or green LED and if the green is too bright for your liking,
put something in front to reduce its glare or mount it so it points in a different
direction then from where you are seeing it, so you only see it indirectly.
Hope this clarifies,
Cor.

-----Original Message-----
From: EV [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Kevin Trombley via EV
Sent: Friday, January 05, 2018 8:12 AM
To: [hidden email]
Cc: Kevin Trombley
Subject: [EVDL] Lee Hart's Batt-Bridge

 I am assembling a few Batt-Bridges.
In the description it specifies D2 & D3 are "red high-efficiency LED" & D1 is just a green LED.

...in the written description down below it says: "Use an ordinary low brightness green" & "the red LED's should be high brightness types -- the brighter the better, so you can see them even in daylight.

So, we have

...a. "red high-efficiency LED"

...b. "the red LED's should be high-brightness types"

...c. looking on-line I have found LED's labeled as "ultra bright"

All say about the same thing (I think) but, it's NOT CRYSTAL CLEAR for the lay person (your average DIY guy or gal)


So,
...for the record, which LED's are the "right" ones for building a Batt-Bridge?

Also,
...what is the "proper" size/gauge wire to be used on Batt-Bridges?

(It will carry pack voltage but, only ~10 - 20ma) Thanks,          Kevin      Functional Artist to use?
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Re: Lee Hart's Batt-Bridge

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In reply to this post by Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list
Kevin Trombley via EV wrote:
> I am assembling a few Batt-Bridges.
> In the description it specifies D2 & D3 are "red high-efficiency LED" & D1 is just a green LED.
> ...in the written description down below it says: "Use an ordinary low brightness green" & "the red LED's should be high brightness types -- the brighter the better, so you can see them even in daylight.
>
> All say about the same thing (I think) but, it's NOT CRYSTAL CLEAR for the lay person (your average DIY guy or gal)

Yes, they are all saying the same thing. There are no good definitions
for LED efficiency and brightness, so I had to use generic terms.

> ...for the record, which LED's are the "right" ones for building a Batt-Bridge?

Electrically, what matters is the voltage drop across the diodes. The
*color* (or more precisely, the wavelength in nanometers) of an LED
largely determines this. The green LED should be about 565nm and drop
about 2.1v at 10ma. The red LEDs should be about 635nm and have drop of
about 1.8v at 10mA.

Visually, the LEDs can be whatever color and brightness you want, as
long as the voltage drops are about right. Since the green LED is on all
the time (it just tells you the Batt-Bridge has power), you don't want
it to be annoyingly bright. The red LEDs indicate trouble, so you want
them to be bright enough to notice, even on a sunny day.

> ...what is the "proper" size/gauge wire to be used on Batt-Bridges?
> (It will carry pack voltage but, only ~10 - 20ma)

The current is low, so just about any size wire will work. Choose it for
mechanical strength and insulation quality rather than wire size.

Be sure the insulation on the wire is good enough. You're connecting
these wire to your high voltage pack! Good wire will have its voltage
rating printed on it, or in its data sheets.

Also, put the resistors at the battery terminal end of the wire. That
way, if there is a short in the wire, the resistor will safely limit the
current.

I do sell the Batt-Bridge
<http://www.sunrise-ev.com/LeesEVs.htm#battbridge> But in fact, I sell
only a couple a year. Most people build it themselves. So in the spirit
of experimentation, it's up to them to figure out what LEDs work for
their particular needs. :-)

--
Whether we or our politicians know it or not, Nature is party to all
our deals and decisions, and she has more votes, a longer memory,
and a sterner sense of justice than we do. -- Wendell Berry
--
Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com
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