Re: Looking for a Conversion Kit for a 1929 Ford.

classic Classic list List threaded Threaded
44 messages Options
123
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Looking for a Conversion Kit for a 1929 Ford.

Jeff Shanab
You would be happier with 2 8" than 1 9" I think.

assuming you have a typical 3.55:1 and 24" dia tire (840 rotations per mile)

    the 840rpm for 60mph is ony 3k on the motor so speed is good, but...
    assuming 2500lb finished weight 1200lb.ft of torque is needed for
1/2 g launch (rather anemic)
    1200/3.55 is 338 lb.ft from the motor. or over 1000 amps in the
motor loop

    so .7G launch (brisk) is out of the question with this rear end

    ok consider a 4.11:1 3500 rpm at 60
    1/2G  291 lb.ft right at 900Amps, ok zilla will do this for a few
seconds.
    .7G is  425lb.ft again to many amps

So either you need a rather non-standard rear end ratio of about 6:1
or two motors to start off the line,


Series/Parallel background info:
Starting in series is same amps double the torque until a certain rpm is
reached taking advantage of the amps the controller can put out.
Remebering that the voltage limit on an advanced motor is about 170V and
because we are dividing the voltage in half between the motor, we are
letting the controller put out 300V at 1000 ams. Something you can't do
with one commutator in the circuit.
The available torque drops as rpm climbs so then switch to parallel
mode. Now we limit each motor to 170V still but split the amps the
controller can deliver between the two motors so you have twice the
power that one motor would give. You can't do parallel off the line
because the amp limits the torque so you would need a zilla 2K to push
the motors.


_______________________________________________
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Looking for a Conversion Kit for a 1929 Ford.

Hi-Torque Electric
Hey Jeff

I'd say I'd confirm your suggestion here.  I'd change
one thing though with limiting the motors to below 160
volts so that they stay below a possible flashover
point.  Better safe than sorry 8^)

Hope this helps
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric

> Remebering that the voltage limit on an advanced
> motor is about 170V and
> because we are dividing the voltage in half between
> the motor, we are
> letting the controller put out 300V at 1000 ams.
> Something you can't do
> with one commutator in the circuit.
> The available torque drops as rpm climbs so then
> switch to parallel
> mode. Now we limit each motor to 170V still but
> split the amps the
> controller can deliver between the two motors so you
> have twice the
> power that one motor would give. You can't do
> parallel off the line
> because the amp limits the torque so you would need
> a zilla 2K to push
> the motors.



      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Shape Yahoo! in your own image.  Join our Network Research Panel today!   http://surveylink.yahoo.com/gmrs/yahoo_panel_invite.asp?a=7 


_______________________________________________
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Series Parallel Configuration Question

Joe Plumer
In reply to this post by Jeff Shanab
Series Parallel Configuration Question:

I'm not clear on quite how this is done.  Are the motors attached end to end
to
accomplish this?  That's the picture I have in my mind.

So it looks like:
_____   ______   _
|_____|-|_____|-<_ (rear end)

Is that correct?

Thanks for this clarification.

_________________________________________________________________
Tease your brain--play Clink! Win cool prizes!
http://club.live.com/clink.aspx?icid=clink_hotmailtextlink2

_______________________________________________
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Series Parallel Configuration Question

Hi-Torque Electric
Hey Joe

Series /parallel refers to the electrical wiring of
the motors and not their position.  What you've drawn
is how the motors are setup "in line", but the motors
can be used side by side also as in Otmar's Calif
Poppy.
Hope this helps
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric


--- Joe Plumer <[hidden email]> wrote:

> Series Parallel Configuration Question:
>
> I'm not clear on quite how this is done.  Are the
> motors attached end to end
> to
> accomplish this?  That's the picture I have in my
> mind.
>
> So it looks like:
> _____   ______   _
> |_____|-|_____|-<_ (rear end)
>
> Is that correct?
>
> Thanks for this clarification.
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
> Tease your brain--play Clink! Win cool prizes!
>
http://club.live.com/clink.aspx?icid=clink_hotmailtextlink2
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>



       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545433

_______________________________________________
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Looking for a Conversion Kit for a 1929 Ford.

Marty Hewes
In reply to this post by Jeff Shanab
What am I missing here?  Looks to me like you're considering a big buck dual
motor and high current controller setup just to get decent acceleration,
when a transmission would be a much more effective solution by getting the
motor RPM up to where the motor load is a better match for the batteries.
What would this look like off the line with a modest 3 to 1 first gear
reduction in there?  Three times the torque at the rear wheels for the cost
of a bone yard trans?  Then what would the acceleration be with a 1K Zilla
and at least AGM's? I'm really having a hard time understanding the appeal
of running a DC motor without a transmission for anything short of a super
light weight lithium powered dragster.  I've got to be missing something.

Marty

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Shanab" <[hidden email]>
To: <[hidden email]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 8:31 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Looking for a Conversion Kit for a 1929 Ford.


> You would be happier with 2 8" than 1 9" I think.
>
> assuming you have a typical 3.55:1 and 24" dia tire (840 rotations per
> mile)
>
>    the 840rpm for 60mph is ony 3k on the motor so speed is good, but...
>    assuming 2500lb finished weight 1200lb.ft of torque is needed for
> 1/2 g launch (rather anemic)
>    1200/3.55 is 338 lb.ft from the motor. or over 1000 amps in the
> motor loop
>
>    so .7G launch (brisk) is out of the question with this rear end
>
>    ok consider a 4.11:1 3500 rpm at 60
>    1/2G  291 lb.ft right at 900Amps, ok zilla will do this for a few
> seconds.
>    .7G is  425lb.ft again to many amps
>
> So either you need a rather non-standard rear end ratio of about 6:1
> or two motors to start off the line,


_______________________________________________
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Looking for a Conversion Kit for a 1929 Ford.

Matt Graham-3
Hey everyone,

There is something really elegant about the two motor solution but you're
right, Marty -- a single 9" motor with Z1K and transmission fits the bill
here, too. For Joule Injected I went with the Z2K and two inline Warp 9s and
I'm very happy with it. One of my goals was to eliminate the potential
failure point of the transmission for drag racing. That was accomplished,
but now I have the very real (already occurred) failure point of the
coupling. More specifically, the keystock likes to shear in two. Of course
this can be remedied, but not without something like a splined interface
between the two motors and also back to the driveshaft. I see Mike already
mentioned the TransWarp9, but I don't believe the tailshaft comes splined,
too.

No doubt about it, it's costly to go direct drive with high amps:
  $1,700 for additional motor (depending on what you get)
  $2,000 premium for upgrade to Z2K
  $350 for reversing contactor pair
  $350 (might as well throw in the series/parallel contactor!)

That's $4,400 so far, as compared to the cost of a Z1K with single 9". Of
course you need to factor in the cost of the tranny and adapter plate.
Neither option is a drop in, so there are other costs as well.

If you do decide to go with the dual motor setup, this was the way I wired
them for series/parallel and single motor reverse:
http://www.jouleinjected.com/joule-injected-single-rev-circuit.pdf
I just put this up on the site, since it was being discussed recently.

The '29 Ford looks like a fun project! Keep us posted on what you decide to
do.

Matt Graham
300V Nissan 240SX "Joule Injected"
http://www.jouleinjected.com

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf
Of Marty Hewes
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 10:35 AM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Looking for a Conversion Kit for a 1929 Ford.

What am I missing here?  Looks to me like you're considering a big buck dual

motor and high current controller setup just to get decent acceleration,
when a transmission would be a much more effective solution by getting the
motor RPM up to where the motor load is a better match for the batteries.
What would this look like off the line with a modest 3 to 1 first gear
reduction in there?  Three times the torque at the rear wheels for the cost
of a bone yard trans?  Then what would the acceleration be with a 1K Zilla
and at least AGM's? I'm really having a hard time understanding the appeal
of running a DC motor without a transmission for anything short of a super
light weight lithium powered dragster.  I've got to be missing something.

Marty

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Shanab" <[hidden email]>
To: <[hidden email]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 8:31 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Looking for a Conversion Kit for a 1929 Ford.


> You would be happier with 2 8" than 1 9" I think.
>
> assuming you have a typical 3.55:1 and 24" dia tire (840 rotations per
> mile)
>
>    the 840rpm for 60mph is ony 3k on the motor so speed is good, but...
>    assuming 2500lb finished weight 1200lb.ft of torque is needed for
> 1/2 g launch (rather anemic)
>    1200/3.55 is 338 lb.ft from the motor. or over 1000 amps in the
> motor loop
>
>    so .7G launch (brisk) is out of the question with this rear end
>
>    ok consider a 4.11:1 3500 rpm at 60
>    1/2G  291 lb.ft right at 900Amps, ok zilla will do this for a few
> seconds.
>    .7G is  425lb.ft again to many amps
>
> So either you need a rather non-standard rear end ratio of about 6:1
> or two motors to start off the line,


_______________________________________________
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev

_______________________________________________
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Looking for a Conversion Kit for a 1929 Ford.

Marty Hewes
Actually I agree that dual motor is a nice solution, that's why I ordered up
a Zilla with a dual motor switching option.  But I was thinking of dual 8"
plus a transmission to get some serious acceleration :).  But getting two
motors tied together appears to be difficult enough to get done, and
batteries with enough guts to provide the kW are expensive enough, that I
put that plan off until I build something higher performance than my Jeep. I
picked up a single 9" for it.  I briefly considered two motors in the Jeep,
one direct drive to the front axle, one to the rear, then I wouldn't need to
tie them together.  With the motors in parallel, it would be pretty cool
traction control.  If a wheel spun, the RPM of that motor would increase,
and therefore the current through that motor would drop, giving more to the
other motor.

Marty

----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Graham" <[hidden email]>
To: "'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'" <[hidden email]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 11:07 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Looking for a Conversion Kit for a 1929 Ford.


> Hey everyone,
>
> There is something really elegant about the two motor solution but you're
> right, Marty -- a single 9" motor with Z1K and transmission fits the bill
> here, too. For Joule Injected I went with the Z2K and two inline Warp 9s
> and
> I'm very happy with it. One of my goals was to eliminate the potential
> failure point of the transmission for drag racing. That was accomplished,
> but now I have the very real (already occurred) failure point of the
> coupling. More specifically, the keystock likes to shear in two. Of course
> this can be remedied, but not without something like a splined interface
> between the two motors and also back to the driveshaft. I see Mike already
> mentioned the TransWarp9, but I don't believe the tailshaft comes splined,
> too.
>
> No doubt about it, it's costly to go direct drive with high amps:
>  $1,700 for additional motor (depending on what you get)
>  $2,000 premium for upgrade to Z2K
>  $350 for reversing contactor pair
>  $350 (might as well throw in the series/parallel contactor!)
>
> That's $4,400 so far, as compared to the cost of a Z1K with single 9". Of
> course you need to factor in the cost of the tranny and adapter plate.
> Neither option is a drop in, so there are other costs as well.
>
> If you do decide to go with the dual motor setup, this was the way I wired
> them for series/parallel and single motor reverse:
> http://www.jouleinjected.com/joule-injected-single-rev-circuit.pdf
> I just put this up on the site, since it was being discussed recently.
>
> The '29 Ford looks like a fun project! Keep us posted on what you decide
> to
> do.
>
> Matt Graham
> 300V Nissan 240SX "Joule Injected"
> http://www.jouleinjected.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On
> Behalf
> Of Marty Hewes
> Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 10:35 AM
> To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Looking for a Conversion Kit for a 1929 Ford.
>
> What am I missing here?  Looks to me like you're considering a big buck
> dual
>
> motor and high current controller setup just to get decent acceleration,
> when a transmission would be a much more effective solution by getting the
> motor RPM up to where the motor load is a better match for the batteries.
> What would this look like off the line with a modest 3 to 1 first gear
> reduction in there?  Three times the torque at the rear wheels for the
> cost
> of a bone yard trans?  Then what would the acceleration be with a 1K Zilla
> and at least AGM's? I'm really having a hard time understanding the appeal
> of running a DC motor without a transmission for anything short of a super
> light weight lithium powered dragster.  I've got to be missing something.
>
> Marty
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeff Shanab" <[hidden email]>
> To: <[hidden email]>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 8:31 AM
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Looking for a Conversion Kit for a 1929 Ford.
>
>
>> You would be happier with 2 8" than 1 9" I think.
>>
>> assuming you have a typical 3.55:1 and 24" dia tire (840 rotations per
>> mile)
>>
>>    the 840rpm for 60mph is ony 3k on the motor so speed is good, but...
>>    assuming 2500lb finished weight 1200lb.ft of torque is needed for
>> 1/2 g launch (rather anemic)
>>    1200/3.55 is 338 lb.ft from the motor. or over 1000 amps in the
>> motor loop
>>
>>    so .7G launch (brisk) is out of the question with this rear end
>>
>>    ok consider a 4.11:1 3500 rpm at 60
>>    1/2G  291 lb.ft right at 900Amps, ok zilla will do this for a few
>> seconds.
>>    .7G is  425lb.ft again to many amps
>>
>> So either you need a rather non-standard rear end ratio of about 6:1
>> or two motors to start off the line,
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
>


_______________________________________________
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Looking for a Conversion Kit for a 1929 Ford.

Hi-Torque Electric

--- Marty Hewes <[hidden email]> wrote:

> I briefly considered
> two motors in the Jeep,
> one direct drive to the front axle, one to the rear,
> then I wouldn't need to
> tie them together.  With the motors in parallel, it
> would be pretty cool
> traction control.  If a wheel spun, the RPM of that
> motor would increase,
> and therefore the current through that motor would
> drop, giving more to the
> other motor.

Hey Marty

I thought I might suggest that if in fact these two
motors did opperate as you describe that you could
change the actual duty cycle of the motors where one
motor would be really happy but the other motor could
be overworked get hotter and have a shorter duty cycle
than the other.

Just a thought I had on this.

Cya
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric


       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search
that gives answers, not web links.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC

_______________________________________________
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Motor coupler issues / was Looking for a Conversion Kit for a 1929 Ford.

Hi-Torque Electric
In reply to this post by Matt Graham-3

--- Matt Graham <[hidden email]> wrote:

> but now I have the very real (already occurred)
> failure point of the
> coupling. More specifically, the keystock likes to
> shear in two. Of course
> this can be remedied, but not without something like
> a splined interface
> between the two motors and also back to the
> driveshaft. I see Mike already
> mentioned the TransWarp9, but I don't believe the
> tailshaft comes splined,
> too.

Hey Matt

I thought your issue was in the final output drive
shaft? and not the coupler interface?

The TransWarp9 does come with the same 1 1/8th keyed
shaft (for the tailshaft) as the standard 1 1/8th
keyed output shaft on the Warp9 or ADC 9's which
should be a lot stouter than the tailshaft you've had
to deal with.  Anyway I know you split your final
output shaft but wanted to see if you've also had
issues with the couplered shaft keys?

Cya
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric


      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search
http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=graduation+gifts&cs=bz

_______________________________________________
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Motor coupler issues / was Looking for a Conversion Kit for a 1929 Ford.

Mike Willmon-3
Matt,
What coupler were you using?  Was it a Taperlock or a Gear Coupler?
As Jim can attest the new DE shaft on that TransWarp9 looks much better that the 1-1/8 DE on the WarP9.
My concern is still the interface between the two however.  I'm going with a 1-1/8" to 1-1/8"  Dodge Gear Coupler with the "Flex" hubs on both sides.  Jim wound up pressing them on for me over the keyed spline.

Did you say you were shearing the keys?  which is why I was wondering if you were using Taper-Lock or press fit Gear hubs.

Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.

----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Husted wrote:

>
> Hey Matt
>
> I thought your issue was in the final output drive
> shaft? and not the coupler interface?
>
> The TransWarp9 does come with the same 1 1/8th keyed
> shaft (for the tailshaft) as the standard 1 1/8th
> keyed output shaft on the Warp9 or ADC 9's which
> should be a lot stouter than the tailshaft you've had
> to deal with.  Anyway I know you split your final
> output shaft but wanted to see if you've also had
> issues with the couplered shaft keys?
>
> Cya
> Jim Husted
> Hi-Torque Electric
>
>
>      
> ____________________________________________________________________________________Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
> Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search
> http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=graduation+gifts&cs=bz
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>

_______________________________________________
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Motor coupler issues / was Looking for a Conversion Kit for a 1929 Ford.

Matt Graham-3
In reply to this post by Hi-Torque Electric
Hey Jim,

At Steve Clunn's rally the year before last I sheared the smaller tailshaft
key during a burnout. Here's a picture of the carnage:

http://www.jouleinjected.com/sheared.jpg

I had hoped that it was just the rearmost motor's output shaft, and that I'd
be able to repair it at Steve's garage. Charles Whalen actually towed me the
5 miles or so using his RAV4 EV. Thanks again, Charles!

Well, not to be left out, that shaft managed to get in on the action, too:

http://www.jouleinjected.com/cracked.jpg

Clearly all those burnouts and hard launches with sticky tires at the track
did in the final output shaft. It literally took hours to pull the yoke off
of that split shaft. The issue with the tailshaft of that same motor was in
part due to the smaller 3/16" keyway that's standard on the smaller shafts.
At least the 1 1/8" shafts get the 1/4" keys. Now there are hardened tool
steel keys in place, but you know it's just hogging out those keyways.

I had to rotate the rear motor back to the front since its tailshaft was
turned down a few thousandths.

Yes, splines would be a good idea. . .take care of those motors, folks!

Matt Graham
300V Nissan 240SX "Joule Injected"
http://www.jouleinjected.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Husted [mailto:[hidden email]]
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 3:20 PM
To: [hidden email]; Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Motor coupler issues / was Looking for a Conversion Kit for a 1929
Ford.


--- Matt Graham <[hidden email]> wrote:

> but now I have the very real (already occurred)
> failure point of the
> coupling. More specifically, the keystock likes to
> shear in two. Of course
> this can be remedied, but not without something like
> a splined interface
> between the two motors and also back to the
> driveshaft. I see Mike already
> mentioned the TransWarp9, but I don't believe the
> tailshaft comes splined,
> too.

Hey Matt

I thought your issue was in the final output drive
shaft? and not the coupler interface?

The TransWarp9 does come with the same 1 1/8th keyed
shaft (for the tailshaft) as the standard 1 1/8th
keyed output shaft on the Warp9 or ADC 9's which
should be a lot stouter than the tailshaft you've had
to deal with.  Anyway I know you split your final
output shaft but wanted to see if you've also had
issues with the couplered shaft keys?

Cya
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric


 
____________________________________________________________________________
________
Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search
http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=graduation+gifts&cs=bz

_______________________________________________
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Motor coupler issues / was Looking for a Conversion Kitfor a 1929 Ford.

Matt Graham-3
In reply to this post by Mike Willmon-3
Hey Mike,

I'm using gear couplers. I used the 5016 series, so pretty beefy. They've
held up fine; it's really the keys that take the beating. Well, now the
keyways, too, after installing tool steel keys. At this point, it's clear
that new armature shafts are needed, so I'll enjoy this setup while it
lasts. Don't worry, I've got Jim's number on speed dial.

When we put the motors back together Shawn welded the coupler directly onto
the shaft so it's not going anywhere for awhile:

http://www.jouleinjected.com/welded.jpg

This was another reason why the rearmost motor had to be moved up to the
front. The motor that was previously up front has a pretty clean output
shaft--or at least it did when it went into the car.

I'll check out the "Flex" hubs. So both ends you're coupling are 1 1/8" --
you have one TransWarp9 and one Warp9? Aren't these just straight shafts
with the 1/4" keys?

Matt Graham
300V Nissan 240SX "Joule Injected"
http://www.jouleinjected.com


-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf
Of MIKE WILLMON
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 3:49 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Motor coupler issues / was Looking for a Conversion
Kitfor a 1929 Ford.

Matt,
What coupler were you using?  Was it a Taperlock or a Gear Coupler?
As Jim can attest the new DE shaft on that TransWarp9 looks much better that
the 1-1/8 DE on the WarP9.
My concern is still the interface between the two however.  I'm going with a
1-1/8" to 1-1/8"  Dodge Gear Coupler with the "Flex" hubs on both sides.
Jim wound up pressing them on for me over the keyed spline.

Did you say you were shearing the keys?  which is why I was wondering if you
were using Taper-Lock or press fit Gear hubs.

Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.

----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Husted wrote:

>
> Hey Matt
>
> I thought your issue was in the final output drive
> shaft? and not the coupler interface?
>
> The TransWarp9 does come with the same 1 1/8th keyed
> shaft (for the tailshaft) as the standard 1 1/8th
> keyed output shaft on the Warp9 or ADC 9's which
> should be a lot stouter than the tailshaft you've had
> to deal with.  Anyway I know you split your final
> output shaft but wanted to see if you've also had
> issues with the couplered shaft keys?
>
> Cya
> Jim Husted
> Hi-Torque Electric
>
>
>      
>
____________________________________________________________________________
________Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
> Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search
> http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=graduation+gifts&cs=bz
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>

_______________________________________________
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev

_______________________________________________
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Motor coupler issues / was Looking for a Conversion Kitfor a 1929 Ford.

Mike Willmon-3

Yep 1-1/8" DE on the WarP9   to 1-1/8" CE on the TransWarP9

The drive end of the TransWarp9 looks stout.  You can see pics up on Jims site.
I'm wishing Netgain would beef up the shaft design all together on the plain old WarP9.

Here's the Gear Coupling I picked in size 1.0
http://www.dodge-pt.com/pdf/catalog/pt_components/2004_pdf/gear_fea_ben.pdf
and
http://www.dodge-pt.com/pdf/catalog/pt_components/2004_pdf/gear_sel_dim.pdf

And pics of said couple on motors at the Wayland Invite:

http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/NetGain_TransWarP9_Hi_Torque_Electric.jpg 
http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/NetGain_WarP9_Hi_Torque_Electric_gear_coupler.jpg 
http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/NetGain_WarP9_Hi_Torque_Electric_left.jpg
http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/NetGain_WarP9_Hi_Torque_Electric_right.jpg

I may want to think about have new shafts built up and on hand.  Shipping costs on these babies back to Jim would kill me more than having to ship them for repair.  But I know Jim secretly wishes to see them again.  Hopefully the only place he'll see them again is at my track ;-)

Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.


----- Original Message -----
Matt Graham wrote:
>
> I'll check out the "Flex" hubs. So both ends you're coupling are 1
> 1/8" --
> you have one TransWarp9 and one Warp9? Aren't these just straight
> shaftswith the 1/4" keys?
>

_______________________________________________
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Motor coupler issues / was Looking for a Conversion Kit fora 1929 Ford.

Bob Rice-2
In reply to this post by Hi-Torque Electric
   Hi Jim, Matt an All;

   Sounds like Matt is ready for; Drum Roll, please, A Siamese  Nine Inch
motor. He would be the first guy on the block(Strip) with one? END the #$%@
coupling problem, once and for all!

   I could EVen see it at Battery Beach Burnout this Jan, coming up?Boy!
That would be a Hellova motor!Sunshine yella, a palm tree and sun image on
it?

   Just thinking out loud. Jim, Run off a few extra for stock?

   Seeya

    Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Husted" <[hidden email]>
To: <[hidden email]>; "Electric Vehicle Discussion List"
<[hidden email]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 3:19 PM
Subject: [EVDL] Motor coupler issues / was Looking for a Conversion Kit fora
1929 Ford.


>
> --- Matt Graham <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
>> but now I have the very real (already occurred)
>> failure point of the
>> coupling. More specifically, the keystock likes to
>> shear in two. Of course
>> this can be remedied, but not without something like
>> a splined interface
>> between the two motors and also back to the
>> driveshaft. I see Mike already
>> mentioned the TransWarp9, but I don't believe the
>> tailshaft comes splined,
>> too.
>
> Hey Matt
>
> I thought your issue was in the final output drive
> shaft? and not the coupler interface?
>
> The TransWarp9 does come with the same 1 1/8th keyed
> shaft (for the tailshaft) as the standard 1 1/8th
> keyed output shaft on the Warp9 or ADC 9's which
> should be a lot stouter than the tailshaft you've had
> to deal with.  Anyway I know you split your final
> output shaft but wanted to see if you've also had
> issues with the couplered shaft keys?
>
> Cya
> Jim Husted
> Hi-Torque Electric
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________________
> Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
> Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search
> http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=graduation+gifts&cs=bz
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.8/941 - Release Date: 8/7/2007
> 4:06 PM
>

_______________________________________________
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Motor coupler issues / was Looking for a Conversion Kit fora 1929 Ford.

Hi-Torque Electric

--- Bob Rice <[hidden email]> wrote:

>    Hi Jim, Matt an All;
>
>    Sounds like Matt is ready for; Drum Roll, please,
> A Siamese  Nine Inch
> motor. He would be the first guy on the block(Strip)
> with one? END the #$%@
> coupling problem, once and for all!

Hey Bob, all

Actually Shawn Lawless will be the first one to won a
Siamese 9 8^o
I'm working with / waiting for Keith to get them
finished right now and am plain stuck fiddling with my
balls until I can get them in my greedy little hands,
LMAO!  (hey if nothing else my hands are never idol
;^D

EVen though Keiths made metal shafts for racers for 40
years I got him puckered like I gave him a lemon
enima.  Being able to glean some info off of the
Zombies motors caused us to have to rethink and adjust
for bigger motors and a bit more user friendly
assembly 8^)

Funny you all want them now, good thing I didn't sell
my house and invest in building up a batch of these as
I'd have starved to death waiting to recoup my money,
LMAO.

Seriously, for some daily driver rigs it's not rocket
sceince but for what Shawns looking to do it's pretty
damn close 8^o  This adds to the pucker factor and the
need to address many issues becomes much more
important to do it right.  I am someone who feels
EVerything happens for a reason and with the new data
and info I've gleaned here the last couple months they
will go out with a better advance and a better
designed shaft than the first prototype 8^) and will
hopefully go out and kick ass for a couple of
birthdays without issue.

Anyway I'm not sitting on my hands (I fiddle, remember
LMAO) but I am subject to a certain level of resourses
that prevent me from just whipping these out in
quantity right now.

Cya
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric




       
____________________________________________________________________________________
Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your pocket: mail, news, photos & more.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/go?refer=1GNXIC

_______________________________________________
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Motor coupler issues / was Looking for a Conversion Kitfor a 1929 Ford.

Hi-Torque Electric
In reply to this post by Matt Graham-3

--- Matt Graham <[hidden email]> wrote:

> I've got Jim's number on speed dial.

Hey Matt

Yeah, but you never call me 8^P and when you do it's
usually butthead 8^o  I knew you'd split the final
drive but not the little shafts key (that or I forgot
about it)  Either way, you've become quite the little
motor whore haven't you 8^)  Maybe shaft whore is
better worded ;^) LMAO.

Anyway I was thinking that maybe you should try
rubbing a little Viagra on those shafts and see if you
can stiffen them up a bit before you race next 8^o

I always keep a sharp blade on the hacksaw so you just
say when you want me to cut them couplers off for ya,
hehe.
 
Anyway good to see you post 8^)

Cya
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric




       
____________________________________________________________________________________Ready for the edge of your seat?
Check out tonight's top picks on Yahoo! TV.
http://tv.yahoo.com/

_______________________________________________
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Motor coupler issues

Mike Willmon-3
In reply to this post by Matt Graham-3
Matt,
Nice beef job on the shaft coupler.
http://www.jouleinjected.com/welded.jpg
If the shaft goes it won't be there ;-)

It looks like you filled in the pilot hole in the end of the shaft too.  I'm thinking about machining a plug with a chamfer on it,
hammering it in and welding a bead around it.  From this pic of your split DE shaft http://www.jouleinjected.com/cracked.jpg it
looks like it was due to weakness in the OD on the shaft due to the pilot bearing bore.

I'm thinking if I plug it and stiffen up the end I might be able to prevent that fatigue for a while.  At least until Jim can
start stocking WarP9 shafts ;-)  The pilot bore down the center of the (supposedly strong) drive shaft looks a little lacking in
the beef department, especially at the bottom of the key slot.
http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/NetGain_WarP9_Hi_Torque_Electric_gear_coupler.jpg


Hey Jim, see what Kieth would charge to knock off some hardened, stock shape WarP9 shafts, only without the pilot bore in the DE.
That 1-1/8" shaft should be suufficient for a puny 'ol 500 ft-lbs.  Its a shame its integrity is compromised by the pilot bore.
Or maybe see what his take is on just doing the plug and weld thing. Anything to give that key something to bite against on the
extreme end would no doubt help.

Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.

_______________________________________________
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Looking for a Conversion Kit for a 1929 Ford.

storm connors
In reply to this post by Jeff Shanab
My suggestion would be to retain the transmission and clutch. My little
Suzuki should be about the same weight as you will be. It is useful to have
the low gear for starting off especially if it is up hill. Mine is operated
in second gear most of the time, but highway demands third.
 Direct drive is going to be expensive and difficult to get right the first
time. Reverse will be a problem. OTOH installing an adapter plate and using
the clutch and transmission will be relatively simple. Since this is a
classic car, the less it is modified the better. Later on someone may want
one of the other engine options.
120-144v should be adequate. 6 or 8v golf cart batteries will probably be
the power source once the cost of 123s and charging is considered. Probably
plan for 6 or 8 under the hood, the rest in the bed.
If you stay on the paved road of EVdom you might actually get your
conversion running. Lots of "someday" EVs on the list.

On 8/7/07, isaaks < [hidden email]> wrote:

>
> Hi List
>
>
>
> I have a 1929 Ford coupe that is looking for an engine.  You can see it at
>
>
> www.isaaks.com/29Ford/1929Ford.htm
>
>
>
> The problem is I am not knowledgeable about DC motors, controllers, and
> batteries, etc.  From the little I have read, it appears there are many
> options to consider depending on ones needs, and even then it's not clear
> which is the best way to go. As for needs, this is what I think I'd like:
>
>
>
> 1.      Travel will be local, no more than 70 miles per trip. Probably
> closer to 10 to 20 miles or less most of the time.
> 2.      I would like the car to be quite peppy and quick off the line
> (traffic light). I don't plan on racing it.
> 3.      I really do not need top speed, as driving will be pretty well
> contained to town speed limits, generally less than 50 MPH.
>
>
>
> So is it reasonable to consider the following?
>
>
>
> 1.      A warp9 DC motor  --- direct connect to drive shaft (no clutch or
> transmission).
> 2.      A zilla 1K controller
> 3.      lithium Ion batteries from A123 systems for example?
>
>
>
> What might be some alternatives??
>
>
>
> All comments and suggestions are welcome.
>
> Thank you
>
> Edward Isaaks
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>



--
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/1059
http://stormselectric.blogspot.com/
Storm
_______________________________________________
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Looking for a Conversion Kit for a 1929 Ford.

Jeff Shanab
In reply to this post by Jeff Shanab
The natural tendency of an ICE motor is to rapidly drop rpm when the
throttle is lifted, this makes shifting a transmission fast and smooth.
The natural tendency of an electric motor is to slowly drop in rpm when
the throttle is lifted, this makes long or jarring shifts.

In an ICE, The noise in a transmission is masked by the normal engine
and exhaust sounds. After driving my EV for a year or so, i have come to
hate the long shifts(and I am a person who prefers a stick) and the
noise from it.

The clutch is also another ICE era part that must be adapted, maintained
and replaced.  All this talk about adapters is trying to fit into the
ICE worlds motto of proprietary parts. If there was an inline for rwd
and an over and under dual motor setup(with differential in houseing) no
tranny adapters would be needed.

Actually if I had the ability to play there is one more idea I would
like to try.
 Use a locking torque converter. It would start at 3:! or 4:1 then
transition smoothly up to near 1:1 then you lock it in to 1:1.

_______________________________________________
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
Reply | Threaded
Open this post in threaded view
|

Re: Motor coupler issues / was Looking for a Conversion Kitfor a 1929 Ford.

Jeff Shanab
In reply to this post by Hi-Torque Electric
For transmision conversions for RWD, it would be cool if someone came up
with a new DE plate that had a big bearing and a large flange.
the shaft in this beast would present a SBC crank cut right out of the
solid.

_______________________________________________
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
123