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controllers

Sam Shepherd
Does anyone have problems with their controllers heating up?My Logisystem
controller will get so hot it will burn you if you touch it! And power drops
off about 30% and that's only after 10 miles and two hills!
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Re: controllers

EVDL Administrator
On 13 Sep 2009 at 16:57, Sam Shepherd wrote:

> Does anyone have problems with their controllers heating up?My Logisystem
> controller will get so hot it will burn you if you touch it! And power
> drops off about 30% and that's only after 10 miles and two hills!

Are you keeping your transmission in the LOWEST gear possible?  Assuming a
series DC motor, upshifting too soon (driving it like an ICE) will tend to
keep the controller deep into current limit, and can cause this problem.  
It'll heat up the motor, too, because at low RPM its fan won't run fast
enough.

You want to pick the gear you drive in so that, when you're crusing, the
controller is as close to full on as possible - ideally, foot to the floor
(assuming, however, that you don't exceed the motor's RPM limit, which isn't
apt to happen if you're running the motor at or near its rated voltage).  
Again, this is counter-intuitive for an ICE driver.

David Roden
EVDL Administrator
http://www.evdl.org/


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Re: controllers

gottdi
In reply to this post by Sam Shepherd
Got a big heat sink and fan connected properly? Also I agree about the  
gears you use while driving. Watch those rpm's.


Pete :)




On Sep 13, 2009, at 4:57 PM, Sam Shepherd wrote:

> Does anyone have problems with their controllers heating up?My  
> Logisystem
> controller will get so hot it will burn you if you touch it! And  
> power drops
> off about 30% and that's only after 10 miles and two hills!
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http://onegreenev.blogspot.com/
No need to wait any longer. You can now buy one off the shelf. You can still build one too.
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Re: controllers

R. Matt Milliron
In reply to this post by EVDL Administrator
On Sun, 13 Sep 2009 22:05:32 -0400, you wrote:

 snip

>You want to pick the gear you drive in so that, when you're crusing, the
>controller is as close to full on as possible - ideally, foot to the floor
>(assuming, however, that you don't exceed the motor's RPM limit, which isn't
>apt to happen if you're running the motor at or near its rated voltage).  
>Again, this is counter-intuitive for an ICE driver.

  This article came with my Jet and has been included in the EVDL
library.  It explains how and why to drive a DC electric motor powered
vehicle correctly.

  http://www.evdl.org/docs/jet_driving_tips.pdf

  R. M. Milliron
  Lubbock Texas

1981 Jet Electrica (Ford Escort)  
http://evalbum.austinev.org/702
http://hitorqueelectric.com/gallery/v/custom_motors/Hack+vs+Husted/

  This machine had been garaged for 17 years.  I have
upgraded and made it operable.  Tabitha, my daughter,
named it, "Pikachu".  It's yellow and black, electric
and contains Japanese parts, so I went with it.


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Re: controllers

Lee Hart
>  You want to pick the gear you drive in so that, when you're
>  cruising, the controller is as close to full on as possible -
>  ideally, foot to the floor (assuming, however, that you don't
>  exceed the motor's RPM limit, which isn't apt to happen if you're
>  running the motor at or near its rated voltage). Again, this is
>  counter-intuitive for an ICE driver.

The "best" driving style is highly dependent on the vehicle's design --
the motor, controller, battery pack voltage, vehicle weight, whether it
has a transmission or not, etc. The best style for a CitiCar, Jet
Electrica, Solectria Force, or Tesla are considerably different!

If the pack voltage is much higher than the motor's rated voltage, then
you're likely to overspeed the motor if you run the controller "wide open".

If you have an unusually powerful controller like a Cafe Electric Zilla,
you definitely run at less than full throttle or you'll be exceeding the
speed limit by a considerable margin.
--
Lee A. Hart        | Ring the bells that still can ring
814 8th Ave N        | Forget the perfect offering
Sartell MN 56377    | There is a crack in everything
[hidden email]    | That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen

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Re: controllers

Paul Kirchman
In reply to this post by Sam Shepherd

Sam Shepherd wrote
Does anyone have problems with their controllers heating up?My Logisystem
controller will get so hot it will burn you if you touch it! And power drops
off about 30% and that's only after 10 miles and two hills!
Sam,
I have a Logisystem controller and, while it does get hot, it is never so hot that it would burn you.  I have an alluminum heat sink on the bottom and the two fans that they sent with the controller mounted on top.  Recently on my commute I have been doing 56-58 MPH for about a six mile stretch drawing a steady 100-110 amps at 120 volts (3rd gear about 4600 motor RPM) with no noticeable power drop off besides normal voltage sag.  Not too many hills in Florida, but some highway overpasses.
I have the 500 amp controller.  What is your set up?
Paul
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Re: controllers

Roland Wiench
I find it is best to mount a motor controller in the vertical plane where
the heat sink does not transmitted so much heat back back up through the
controller in the horizontal position.

I also mount the controller on 1/2 inch standoffs on a 1/4 inch aluminum
chassis plate.  I use a Dayton 6 inch blower fan rated at 150 cfm that not
only blows outside ambient air over the controller surfaces, but also
between the heat sink and chassis plate.

It is also best to enclose the controller in a housing which can control the
flow of cooling air.  The maximum ambient air temperature that is recorded
was 105 F. at static pressure. (no flow or air under pressure.  At 150 CFM
into a enclosure, the air temperature is reduce to 95 F.  The temperature of
the heat sink never ran above 98 F.

Another thing you could do, is to run cooler air over the heat sink, if you
have a air-conditional.  The feed line that comes from the A/C pump which is
the coldest line that has a insulated cover over it, remove this insulation
and ether wrap a 3/8 inch rubber tubing around it that carries a coolant.
This coolant comes from a small oil or transmission radiator that is place
low in the front with a cooling fan.

This goes to a another oil cooler that sets between the heat sink and
chassis plate.  My controller has this set up built into it.

Roland


----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Kirchman" <[hidden email]>
To: <[hidden email]>
Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2009 7:23 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] controllers


>
>
>
> Sam Shepherd wrote:
> >
> > Does anyone have problems with their controllers heating up?My
> > Logisystem
> > controller will get so hot it will burn you if you touch it! And power
> > drops
> > off about 30% and that's only after 10 miles and two hills!
> >
>
> Sam,
> I have a Logisystem controller and, while it does get hot, it is never so
> hot that it would burn you.  I have an alluminum heat sink on the bottom
> and
> the two fans that they sent with the controller mounted on top.  Recently
> on
> my commute I have been doing 56-58 MPH for about a six mile stretch
> drawing
> a steady 100-110 amps at 120 volts (3rd gear about 4600 motor RPM) with no
> noticeable power drop off besides normal voltage sag.  Not too many hills
> in
> Florida, but some highway overpasses.
> I have the 500 amp controller.  What is your set up?
> Paul
>
>
> -----
> Paul Kirchman
> "Electron Transport"
> www.evalbum.com/1588
> --
> View this message in context:
> http://www.nabble.com/controllers-tp25428563p25454974.html
> Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
> Nabble.com.
>
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>
>

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Re: controllers

Jeff Shanab
In reply to this post by Sam Shepherd

I began to read this but stopped with a big laugh when it said the EV
can be operated with the accelerator floored for long periods.
I do have 300V and 75mph on the flats takes 25% throttle to maintain.
This is definitly only for a lower voltage EV with an underpowered
controller and should not be spread around. (Bad Press and dangerous)

>>  You want to pick the gear you drive in so that, when you're
>>  cruising, the controller is as close to full on as possible -
>>  ideally, foot to the floor (assuming, however, that you don't
>>  exceed the motor's RPM limit, which isn't apt to happen if you're
>>  running the motor at or near its rated voltage). Again, this is
>>  counter-intuitive for an ICE driver.
>
> The "best" driving style is highly dependent on the vehicle's design
> -- the motor, controller, battery pack voltage, vehicle weight,
> whether it has a transmission or not, etc. The best style for a
> CitiCar, Jet Electrica, Solectria Force, or Tesla are considerably
> different!
>
> If the pack voltage is much higher than the motor's rated voltage,
> then you're likely to overspeed the motor if you run the controller
> "wide open".
>
> If you have an unusually powerful controller like a Cafe Electric
> Zilla, you definitely run at less than full throttle or you'll be
> exceeding the speed limit by a considerable margin.
> --
> Lee A. Hart        | Ring the bells that still can ring
> 814 8th Ave N        | Forget the perfect offering
> Sartell MN 56377    | There is a crack in everything
> [hidden email]    | That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen

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Re: controllers

Morgan LaMoore
On Tue, Sep 15, 2009 at 10:47 PM, Jeff Shanab <[hidden email]> wrote:
> I began to read this but stopped with a big laugh when it said the EV
> can be operated with the accelerator floored for long periods.
> I do have 300V and 75mph on the flats takes 25% throttle to maintain.
> This is definitly only for a lower voltage EV with an underpowered
> controller and should not be spread around. (Bad Press and dangerous)

No; Lee's advice is for EVs with lower voltage, regardless of
controller power. If you have a 96V pack, then at high RPMs, you will
need to use lots of throttle (duty cycle) to get 10-20HP, even if you
have a Z2K. That's just the load characteristic of the motor.

-Morgan LaMoore

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Re: controllers

jonglauser
I have a 96V system ADC 9", NAPA 6V golf car batteries, Kodiak 700A
controller. I cruise at 35-45MPH in 3rd gear, 2.5-3k RPM, 100-200
motor amps, 80-150 battery amps, pack at 87-97V . I do this at 25-50%
throttle. If I floor it my batteries sag to 84V (or less) and deliver
300-400A (temperature dependent), I simply cant floor it without
pulling the batteries too low.

I'd go for a higher RPM but something is out of balance or has a bad
bearing and it gets too bad at 3.5k RPM. Either way, the recommended
continuous max RPM for the ADC 9" is about 5k RPM.

It's true that I only get 20-30HP when I accelerate with as much
throttle as 84V 250-350 battery amps will give me. Kinda sucks. I want
a higher voltage!

-Jon Glauser
http://jonglauser.blogspot.com
http://www.evalbum.com/555

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Re: controllers

Phil Marino-2
Jon -
What vehicle is this? Any idea of total weight?
Phil Marino

On Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 12:52 PM, Jon Glauser <[hidden email]> wrote:

> I have a 96V system ADC 9", NAPA 6V golf car batteries, Kodiak 700A
> controller. I cruise at 35-45MPH in 3rd gear, 2.5-3k RPM, 100-200
> motor amps, 80-150 battery amps, pack at 87-97V . I do this at 25-50%
> throttle. If I floor it my batteries sag to 84V (or less) and deliver
> 300-400A (temperature dependent), I simply cant floor it without
> pulling the batteries too low.
>
> I'd go for a higher RPM but something is out of balance or has a bad
> bearing and it gets too bad at 3.5k RPM. Either way, the recommended
> continuous max RPM for the ADC 9" is about 5k RPM.
>
> It's true that I only get 20-30HP when I accelerate with as much
> throttle as 84V 250-350 battery amps will give me. Kinda sucks. I want
> a higher voltage!
>
> -Jon Glauser
> http://jonglauser.blogspot.com
> http://www.evalbum.com/555
>
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Re: controllers

jonglauser
On Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 3:05 PM, Phil Marino <[hidden email]> wrote:
> Jon -
> What vehicle is this? Any idea of total weight?
> Phil Marino
>

It's evalbum vehicle 555 (see my signature)

I added 960lbs of battery.

GVWR is 3265 lbs
GAWR is front: 1565 rear:1740

The web says I have a curb weight of 1950-2100lbs. It looks like I'm
under the GVWR! :) I havent calculated any of this before now, thanks
for asking!


-Jon Glauser
http://jonglauser.blogspot.com
http://www.evalbum.com/555

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Re: controllers

Cory Cross-2
In reply to this post by Sam Shepherd
Sam Shepherd wrote:
> Does anyone have problems with their controllers heating up?My Logisystem
> controller will get so hot it will burn you if you touch it! And power drops
> off about 30% and that's only after 10 miles and two hills!
Yes, my logisystems controller just got so hot it started on fire. While
pulling 170-180A battery amps from approximately 140V at 32-33% duty
cycle (about 510-540 motor amps) on a 156V 1000A controller for
approximately 30 seconds (though motor current was about 450A for the
first 20 seconds or so), using all the included hardware (fans, pot
box). This was with a 9" WaRP motor in first gear at around 1500RPM. I
had already driven two miles at 250-350 motor amps, so the controller
was getting warm. I was going to purchase a "cold plate" from mscdirect
for it, but since this is the second time it's blown only days after
installation, after flawless performance by a Raptor, I'm giving up and
will probably go back to the Raptor.

The cold plate is a CP12 something series. Only $60 and you should be
able to mount it using the fan mount holes already on the controller.
Good luck!

Cory

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Re: controllers

Sam Shepherd
Well, believe it or not, I AM using chill plates, two in fact, one under and
one on top with the two fans and it was still too hot to touch. I'm thinking
now that it was on the edge of burning up, scary stuff! I talked to
logisystems and they said it was  ok to run em' hot.I'm using a transmission
and I go thru the "gear's" so unless I'm pulling a hill I'm hardly using any
amp's!!
There was some weird post's as to driving methods, pedal to the metal and
etc.I don't know anything about the "Raptor" is It good?
Thanks for the reply,
Sam
Oh, I had a Zilla for a while and it was more trouble than it was worth! So
I don't know what to use!





On Thu, Sep 17, 2009 at 6:26 PM, Cory Cross <[hidden email]> wrote:

> Sam Shepherd wrote:
> > Does anyone have problems with their controllers heating up?My Logisystem
> > controller will get so hot it will burn you if you touch it! And power
> drops
> > off about 30% and that's only after 10 miles and two hills!
> Yes, my logisystems controller just got so hot it started on fire. While
> pulling 170-180A battery amps from approximately 140V at 32-33% duty
> cycle (about 510-540 motor amps) on a 156V 1000A controller for
> approximately 30 seconds (though motor current was about 450A for the
> first 20 seconds or so), using all the included hardware (fans, pot
> box). This was with a 9" WaRP motor in first gear at around 1500RPM. I
> had already driven two miles at 250-350 motor amps, so the controller
> was getting warm. I was going to purchase a "cold plate" from mscdirect
> for it, but since this is the second time it's blown only days after
> installation, after flawless performance by a Raptor, I'm giving up and
> will probably go back to the Raptor.
>
> The cold plate is a CP12 something series. Only $60 and you should be
> able to mount it using the fan mount holes already on the controller.
> Good luck!
>
> Cory
>
> _______________________________________________
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>
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Re: controllers

Roland Wiench
Hello Sam,

What was wrong with the Zilla?  I have now been running my Z1K in my 7000 lb
EV since 2002.  No problem at all.  Otmar was worry that the Z1K was too
small for my EV with that weight.  I said, no problem at all because I have
been running this EV with a 800 amp CableForm controller that weigh at one
time at 8000 lbs with a overall gear ratio of over 19:1 and normally pull
180 motor amps at 170 volt 300 AH 180 V battery pack.

One thing I did, was to correctly program the motor amps, battery amps,
voltage limits, speed sensor and ran all double shield control wires leaving
the internal shield floating and only connect one end of the outer shield
wire to a large counter poise grounding system the goes around the perimeter
the EV.

I also double grounded all the enclosures that are mounted in aluminum
containers which are install in plastic containers.  I use both large air
cool fans and water cool heat sink.  I use a very large coolant tank which
the coolant circulates through a A/C type of radiator which is also cool
with a radiator fan.

All coolant, heater and A/C lines are double insulated with that good A/C
pipe insulation so as to keep the heat down under the hood.  On a clear day
at higher elevation the under temperature can get up to 140 F.  Once I get
moving, the under hood temperature will come down to the ambient air
temperature and the ZiK heat sinks have never gone over 99 F.

The only trouble I had, was the very long time it took to build this rig
from 1978 to 1985.

Roland




----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Shepherd" <[hidden email]>
To: "ev list" <[hidden email]>
Sent: Friday, September 18, 2009 9:14 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] controllers


> Well, believe it or not, I AM using chill plates, two in fact, one under
> and
> one on top with the two fans and it was still too hot to touch. I'm
> thinking
> now that it was on the edge of burning up, scary stuff! I talked to
> logisystems and they said it was  ok to run em' hot.I'm using a
> transmission
> and I go thru the "gear's" so unless I'm pulling a hill I'm hardly using
> any
> amp's!!
> There was some weird post's as to driving methods, pedal to the metal and
> etc.I don't know anything about the "Raptor" is It good?
> Thanks for the reply,
> Sam
> Oh, I had a Zilla for a while and it was more trouble than it was worth!
> So
> I don't know what to use!
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, Sep 17, 2009 at 6:26 PM, Cory Cross <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> > Sam Shepherd wrote:
> > > Does anyone have problems with their controllers heating up?My
> > > Logisystem
> > > controller will get so hot it will burn you if you touch it! And power
> > drops
> > > off about 30% and that's only after 10 miles and two hills!
> > Yes, my logisystems controller just got so hot it started on fire. While
> > pulling 170-180A battery amps from approximately 140V at 32-33% duty
> > cycle (about 510-540 motor amps) on a 156V 1000A controller for
> > approximately 30 seconds (though motor current was about 450A for the
> > first 20 seconds or so), using all the included hardware (fans, pot
> > box). This was with a 9" WaRP motor in first gear at around 1500RPM. I
> > had already driven two miles at 250-350 motor amps, so the controller
> > was getting warm. I was going to purchase a "cold plate" from mscdirect
> > for it, but since this is the second time it's blown only days after
> > installation, after flawless performance by a Raptor, I'm giving up and
> > will probably go back to the Raptor.
> >
> > The cold plate is a CP12 something series. Only $60 and you should be
> > able to mount it using the fan mount holes already on the controller.
> > Good luck!
> >
> > Cory
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
> > Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> > Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> > Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> >
> >
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Re: controllers

Rick Beebe
In reply to this post by Sam Shepherd
Sam Shepherd wrote:
> Well, believe it or not, I AM using chill plates, two in fact, one under and
> one on top with the two fans and it was still too hot to touch. I'm thinking
> now that it was on the edge of burning up, scary stuff! I talked to
> logisystems and they said it was  ok to run em' hot.I'm using a transmission
> and I go thru the "gear's" so unless I'm pulling a hill I'm hardly using any
> amp's!!

Is this an original Logisystems controller or one of their newer
re-engineered ones? I've seen an original one do its impression of a
rocket, something they've supposedly fixed.

--Rick

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Re: controllers

Russco
In reply to this post by Sam Shepherd
What's going on here?  Controllers that burn up?  Controller manufacturers
that state it's great to have a hot controller?

Well, believe it or not, semiconductors hate heat.  Let the junction get
over 100 degrees C, and the life of that controller is greatly shortened.
A controller should have a thermistor mounted on the base plate of the
transistor that will linearly reduce the maximum motor current as
temperature rises.  As an example, up to 40 degrees, full current, start
reducing the motor current at 41 degrees, such that at 80 degrees motor
current = 10%.  This will not only protect the semiconductors, but prevent
a hot controller that can cause flesh burns.

In my 30 years of experience with EV's, I have concluded the Curtis
controller, despite its shortcomings, is the controller "standard."  The
Logisystems is just a Curtis on steroids, stressing an already thermally
challenged design.  The Kelly is a very poorly designed controller that
won't even meet its own specifications.  Solitron, Zilla are probably the
best around but cost more $$.

I built a Darlington module 650 amp liquid cooled controller ten years ago
that had a base plate temperature rise of 10 degrees F. over ambient.  No
way that would burn your hand.

Am I going to have to start manufacturing controllers again?


Russ Kaufmann

RUSSCO Engineering

http://russcoev.com

The Other Adjustable PFC Charger With Built In GFCI




> Well, believe it or not, I AM using chill plates, two in fact, one under
> and
> one on top with the two fans and it was still too hot to touch. I'm
> thinking
> now that it was on the edge of burning up, scary stuff! I talked to
> logisystems and they said it was  ok to run em' hot.I'm using a
> transmission
> and I go thru the "gear's" so unless I'm pulling a hill I'm hardly using
> any
> amp's!!
> There was some weird post's as to driving methods, pedal to the metal and
> etc.I don't know anything about the "Raptor" is It good?
> Thanks for the reply,
> Sam
> Oh, I had a Zilla for a while and it was more trouble than it was worth!
> So
> I don't know what to use!
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, Sep 17, 2009 at 6:26 PM, Cory Cross <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
>> Sam Shepherd wrote:
>> > Does anyone have problems with their controllers heating up?My
>> Logisystem
>> > controller will get so hot it will burn you if you touch it! And power
>> drops
>> > off about 30% and that's only after 10 miles and two hills!
>> Yes, my logisystems controller just got so hot it started on fire. While
>> pulling 170-180A battery amps from approximately 140V at 32-33% duty
>> cycle (about 510-540 motor amps) on a 156V 1000A controller for
>> approximately 30 seconds (though motor current was about 450A for the
>> first 20 seconds or so), using all the included hardware (fans, pot
>> box). This was with a 9" WaRP motor in first gear at around 1500RPM. I
>> had already driven two miles at 250-350 motor amps, so the controller
>> was getting warm. I was going to purchase a "cold plate" from mscdirect
>> for it, but since this is the second time it's blown only days after
>> installation, after flawless performance by a Raptor, I'm giving up and
>> will probably go back to the Raptor.
>>
>> The cold plate is a CP12 something series. Only $60 and you should be
>> able to mount it using the fan mount holes already on the controller.
>> Good luck!
>>
>> Cory
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
>> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
>> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
>> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>>
>>
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Re: controllers

damon henry

Russ,

 

Please do start manufacturing controllers.  More choices are always better, and you have a good reputation for quality.

 

I'm not sure what is up with Cory's controller, but I have been very happy with my Logisystems.  I had one of the original versions which did get fairly hot.  I measured it at about 130 deg farneheit on the outside of the case at the built in heatsink, but after that one gave up the ghost they replaced it with one of their re-engineered models that I have been very happy with and does not seem to get nearly as hot.  I'm running a 1000 amp 120 volt version at 108 volts in my 2500lb Datsun pickup with a 6.7 inch ADC motor.

 

 

 

damon
 

> Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 12:11:22 -0700
> From: [hidden email]
> To: [hidden email]
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] controllers
>
> What's going on here? Controllers that burn up? Controller manufacturers
> that state it's great to have a hot controller?
>
> Well, believe it or not, semiconductors hate heat. Let the junction get
> over 100 degrees C, and the life of that controller is greatly shortened.
> A controller should have a thermistor mounted on the base plate of the
> transistor that will linearly reduce the maximum motor current as
> temperature rises. As an example, up to 40 degrees, full current, start
> reducing the motor current at 41 degrees, such that at 80 degrees motor
> current = 10%. This will not only protect the semiconductors, but prevent
> a hot controller that can cause flesh burns.
>
> In my 30 years of experience with EV's, I have concluded the Curtis
> controller, despite its shortcomings, is the controller "standard." The
> Logisystems is just a Curtis on steroids, stressing an already thermally
> challenged design. The Kelly is a very poorly designed controller that
> won't even meet its own specifications. Solitron, Zilla are probably the
> best around but cost more $$.
>
> I built a Darlington module 650 amp liquid cooled controller ten years ago
> that had a base plate temperature rise of 10 degrees F. over ambient. No
> way that would burn your hand.
>
> Am I going to have to start manufacturing controllers again?
>
>
> Russ Kaufmann
>
> RUSSCO Engineering
>
> http://russcoev.com
>
> The Other Adjustable PFC Charger With Built In GFCI
>
>
>
>
> > Well, believe it or not, I AM using chill plates, two in fact, one under
> > and
> > one on top with the two fans and it was still too hot to touch. I'm
> > thinking
> > now that it was on the edge of burning up, scary stuff! I talked to
> > logisystems and they said it was ok to run em' hot.I'm using a
> > transmission
> > and I go thru the "gear's" so unless I'm pulling a hill I'm hardly using
> > any
> > amp's!!
> > There was some weird post's as to driving methods, pedal to the metal and
> > etc.I don't know anything about the "Raptor" is It good?
> > Thanks for the reply,
> > Sam
> > Oh, I had a Zilla for a while and it was more trouble than it was worth!
> > So
> > I don't know what to use!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Thu, Sep 17, 2009 at 6:26 PM, Cory Cross <[hidden email]> wrote:
> >
> >> Sam Shepherd wrote:
> >> > Does anyone have problems with their controllers heating up?My
> >> Logisystem
> >> > controller will get so hot it will burn you if you touch it! And power
> >> drops
> >> > off about 30% and that's only after 10 miles and two hills!
> >> Yes, my logisystems controller just got so hot it started on fire. While
> >> pulling 170-180A battery amps from approximately 140V at 32-33% duty
> >> cycle (about 510-540 motor amps) on a 156V 1000A controller for
> >> approximately 30 seconds (though motor current was about 450A for the
> >> first 20 seconds or so), using all the included hardware (fans, pot
> >> box). This was with a 9" WaRP motor in first gear at around 1500RPM. I
> >> had already driven two miles at 250-350 motor amps, so the controller
> >> was getting warm. I was going to purchase a "cold plate" from mscdirect
> >> for it, but since this is the second time it's blown only days after
> >> installation, after flawless performance by a Raptor, I'm giving up and
> >> will probably go back to the Raptor.
> >>
> >> The cold plate is a CP12 something series. Only $60 and you should be
> >> able to mount it using the fan mount holes already on the controller.
> >> Good luck!
> >>
> >> Cory
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
> >> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> >> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> >> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> >>
> >>
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> > Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> > Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> > Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> >
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Re: controllers

Sam Shepherd
In reply to this post by Rick Beebe
It's the late one including their new easy start Pot

On Fri, Sep 18, 2009 at 12:02 PM, Rick Beebe <[hidden email]> wrote:

> Sam Shepherd wrote:
> > Well, believe it or not, I AM using chill plates, two in fact, one under
> and
> > one on top with the two fans and it was still too hot to touch. I'm
> thinking
> > now that it was on the edge of burning up, scary stuff! I talked to
> > logisystems and they said it was  ok to run em' hot.I'm using a
> transmission
> > and I go thru the "gear's" so unless I'm pulling a hill I'm hardly using
> any
> > amp's!!
>
> Is this an original Logisystems controller or one of their newer
> re-engineered ones? I've seen an original one do its impression of a
> rocket, something they've supposedly fixed.
>
> --Rick
>
> _______________________________________________
> General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
>
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Re: controllers

EVDL Administrator
In reply to this post by Russco
On 18 Sep 2009 at 12:11, [hidden email] wrote:

> Am I going to have to start manufacturing controllers again?

Three months ago I might have answered this question "yes, definitely,"
because there was some question as to whether the Zilla would ever rise
again.  It's less critical now, but IMO another well-designed DC controller
will >always< be welcome in the EV world.

David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EVDL Administrator

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