coupler stripped, need advice.

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coupler stripped, need advice.

Soren
I just stripped my coupler between the motor and my transmission.  I have been clutchless on it for about a year.  What I would like to do is make it so this won;t happen gain any time soon.  I actualy had another coupler 2 years ago that I discovered was about to strip, and I replaced it with this one.

If I go with a clutch, will this help reduce the stress on the splines?

I also do not have a motor brace (VW bus) the motor is bolted directly to th adapter plate and tranny.  Could this be my problem?

Any other great ideas?

Thanks.

Soren
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Re: coupler stripped, need advice.

mark at evie-systems
Contact Wayne at http://ev-blue.com/  He has a VW coupler that includes
the OEM spline mate, and he includes the original clutch springs as
well... still clutchless, but it has the springs.



glasers wrote:

> I just stripped my coupler between the motor and my transmission.  I have
> been clutchless on it for about a year.  What I would like to do is make it
> so this won;t happen gain any time soon.  I actualy had another coupler 2
> years ago that I discovered was about to strip, and I replaced it with this
> one.
>
> If I go with a clutch, will this help reduce the stress on the splines?
>
> I also do not have a motor brace (VW bus) the motor is bolted directly to th
> adapter plate and tranny.  Could this be my problem?
>
> Any other great ideas?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Soren

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Re: coupler stripped, need advice.

elecpulsar
In reply to this post by Soren

Soren, I was warned, and had my coupler bust. I feel you need a direct coupling from the motor onto the input shaft. I welded the motors stripped coupler to a old clutch center, and havent had any more trouble. Of coarse the motor must be aligned good. I feel a clutch works better because the disk springs take some of the jolt out. Larry
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Re: coupler stripped, need advice.

joe-22
In reply to this post by Soren
What kind of a coupling are you using?

Joseph H. Strubhar

Web: www.gremcoinc.com

E-mail: [hidden email]


----- Original Message -----
From: "glasers" <[hidden email]>
To: <[hidden email]>
Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 6:48 PM
Subject: [EVDL] coupler stripped, need advice.


>
> I just stripped my coupler between the motor and my transmission.  I have
> been clutchless on it for about a year.  What I would like to do is make
> it
> so this won;t happen gain any time soon.  I actualy had another coupler 2
> years ago that I discovered was about to strip, and I replaced it with
> this
> one.
>
> If I go with a clutch, will this help reduce the stress on the splines?
>
> I also do not have a motor brace (VW bus) the motor is bolted directly to
> th
> adapter plate and tranny.  Could this be my problem?
>
> Any other great ideas?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Soren
> --
> View this message in context:
> http://www.nabble.com/coupler-stripped%2C-need-advice.-tp23663191p23663191.html
> Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
> Nabble.com.
>
> _______________________________________________
> General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>


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Re: coupler stripped, need advice.

Roger Heuckeroth
In reply to this post by Soren
What type of coupler is it?

On May 21, 2009, at 9:48 PM, glasers wrote:

>
> I just stripped my coupler between the motor and my transmission.  I  
> have
> been clutchless on it for about a year.  What I would like to do is  
> make it
> so this won;t happen gain any time soon.  I actualy had another  
> coupler 2
> years ago that I discovered was about to strip, and I replaced it  
> with this
> one.
>
> If I go with a clutch, will this help reduce the stress on the  
> splines?
>
> I also do not have a motor brace (VW bus) the motor is bolted  
> directly to th
> adapter plate and tranny.  Could this be my problem?
>
> Any other great ideas?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Soren
> --
> View this message in context: http://www.nabble.com/coupler-stripped%2C-need-advice.-tp23663191p23663191.html
> Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive  
> at Nabble.com.
>
> _______________________________________________
> General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>

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Re: coupler stripped, need advice.

Doug Weathers
In reply to this post by Soren

On May 21, 2009, at 7:48 PM, glasers wrote:

> I just stripped my coupler between the motor and my transmission.

Please tell us more.  What motor, adapter, and coupler?  Is it a  
heavy car, or a powerful controller, or driven on steep hills (all of  
which require the coupler to handle more power)?  What do you mean by  
"stripped"?  Is it a problem with a key chewing its way out of a keyway?

I'm guessing this is your VW bus, <http://www.evalbum.com/1804>.  
It's probably on the heavy side.  Do you still have the Curtis  
controller, which is not what I'd call "powerful"?  Portland has a  
small assortment of hills - do you drive up them often?

Given that you've destroyed two couplers, and are driving a heavy  
vehicle, you probably need to go to a stronger design of coupler, or  
change something about the vehicle that lowers the power being sent  
through the coupler.  (Make it lighter, put in a wimpier controller,  
stay off the hills.)


> I have
> been clutchless on it for about a year.  What I would like to do is  
> make it
> so this won;t happen gain any time soon.

One way is to put a clutch back in :)

A clutch can slip and prevent damage to the coupler.  Also, the  
clutch disks I've seen usually have a set of springs in them to  
cushion sharp shocks.

Some cars and transmissions are better suited to being used  
clutchless than others are.  If we knew which vehicle and tranny you  
have, perhaps someone will let us know if it's advisable to run them  
in a clutchless setup.  (The VW bus and transaxle are pretty good for  
clutchless operation.)

You might look into taperlock couplers, which don't rely on a key in  
a keyway to transmit the power through the coupler.  (The coupler I  
bought from Electro Automotive is a taperlock and is excellent.)  Or  
spider couplers, which contain a rubber shock-absorbing component.

> I also do not have a motor brace (VW bus) the motor is bolted  
> directly to th
> adapter plate and tranny.  Could this be my problem?

I don't see how.  The original gas engine bolted directly to the  
transmission the same way, and weighed more and vibrated LOTS more.

I can't think of an air-cooled VW conversion that has a motor brace  
or a torque arm.  There's really no good way to put one on.



--
Doug Weathers          | "The Moon.  I've been there.  It's super!"
Las Cruces, NM, USA    |   - Astronaut Charles "Pete" Conrad
http://www.gdunge.com/ |

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Re: coupler stripped, need advice.

Soren

Yes, I am talking about my 73 bus with the original Transmission.  The coupler is keyed with a chuck, and the slines on the coupler just wore away the first time, I am guessing the same thing happened this time but I haven't removed the motor yet. I have a 9 inch motor from Hi-Torque Electric, and the Curtis 1231 controller.  I do have to deal with many hills, driving here isn't easy, but most things within 15 miles of the house aren't too hard to get to.  I do drive it every day as well, which doesn't help for the quick demise of the couplers.

Where should I look for a spider coupler, I am unfamiliar with those.  Maybe the shock absorbancy could help.

Thanks

Soren
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Re: coupler stripped, need advice.

Soren
In reply to this post by Roger Heuckeroth
My coupler is the chuck kind, but it wasn't the chuck that gave out it was the splines on the transmission end that wore down.  This time I assume it is the same problem, but I haven't removed the motor yet.

Soren
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Re: coupler stripped, need advice.

Roger Heuckeroth
The metal probably is not hard enough on the splined portion of the  
coupler if it wore out.  I made my coupler using the hub of original  
clutch disc.  I attached that to a taper-lock gear coupling that  
mounts to the motor shaft.  If you want to BYO this might be the  
easiest way of doing it.  Cheap too as it cost less than $100 to make.


On May 22, 2009, at 9:22 AM, glasers wrote:

>
> My coupler is the chuck kind, but it wasn't the chuck that gave out  
> it was
> the splines on the transmission end that wore down.  This time I  
> assume it
> is the same problem, but I haven't removed the motor yet.
>
> Soren
> --
> View this message in context: http://www.nabble.com/coupler-stripped%2C-need-advice.-tp23663191p23670387.html
> Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive  
> at Nabble.com.
>
> _______________________________________________
> General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>

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Re: coupler stripped, need advice.

Roland Wiench
In reply to this post by Roger Heuckeroth

Hello Soren,

Spline couplers, spine shafts and any other raw stock that is to be cut,
shape and machine, is in a non-harden state, so that it can be machine with
standard cutting tools, unless the machinist have the special cutting tools
for harden material.

I have a local machine shop that sells Browning and Dodge Power transmission
items in either harden material that is already factory machine and harden
to specifications or they handle long length of non-harden spline shafts,
spline couplers, drive key shafts that they can machine.

After these products are cut to length, bore, turn and key, the user may
want it to be the non-harden state, so it acts like a share coupler, where
the coupler brakes instead of the machine that it is driving.

If the user wants it harden for long life, then it either has to be order
that way from the factory, or the shop has to have the equipment to heat it
to a specific temperature, then quickly cool it in oil.  At this point it's
becomes blacken, so it now has to be polish to a bright metal surface and
then reheated to where the material is just turning a light tan color and
then quickly cool again.

Then it again has to be polish with a glass beading and then the metal is
blue or can be plated.

Your material in the spine coupler may be in a non-harden state.  If you can
drill it with a standard drill bit, then its non-harden.

Roland


On May 21, 2009, at 9:48 PM, glasers wrote:

I just stripped my coupler between the motor and my transmission.  I have
been clutchless on it for about a year.  What I would like to do is make it
so this won't happen gain any time soon.  I actually had another coupler 2
years ago that I discovered was about to strip, and I replaced it with this
one.

If I go with a clutch, will this help reduce the stress on the
splines?

I also do not have a motor brace (VW bus) the motor is bolted directly to
the adapter plate and tranny.  Could this be my problem?

Any other great ideas?

Thanks.

Soren
 

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Re: coupler stripped, need advice.

jonglauser
is your coupler similar to the one sold by www.e-volks.com
(http://www.e-volks.com/catalog.0.html)?

if so, it is known to walk itself forward on the shafts and then only
a small portion of the splines actually mate, causing them to strip
off the coupler. There needs to be something to keep the coupler from
moving laterally along the shafts, they setscrew and key aren't
enough.

I made a new coupler from an old clutch disk hub and the original
keyed tube, only this time I added a small bit of metal in the end of
the clutch hub to keep it from sliding forward on the tranny shaft.

-Jon Glauser
http://jonglauser.blogspot.com
http://www.evalbum.com/555

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Re: coupler stripped, need advice.

Thos True
Soren,
Jon's analysis sounds very plausible. You may need to take the weight off of
the splines,and move the coupler back to it's original position.
Additionally, (as you noted earlier) it would be wise to develop some form
of support bracket or bar for the motor itself. That is a lot of rotating
weight to hang in mid-air, and the final pinch point that is created centers
on the splines, which would naturally force the motor away from the
connection eventually.
Just my observation of physics in motion.-Thos

On Fri, May 22, 2009 at 8:29 AM, Jon Glauser <[hidden email]> wrote:

> is your coupler similar to the one sold by www.e-volks.com
> (http://www.e-volks.com/catalog.0.html)?
>
> if so, it is known to walk itself forward on the shafts and then only
> a small portion of the splines actually mate, causing them to strip
> off the coupler. There needs to be something to keep the coupler from
> moving laterally along the shafts, they setscrew and key aren't
> enough.
>
> I made a new coupler from an old clutch disk hub and the original
> keyed tube, only this time I added a small bit of metal in the end of
> the clutch hub to keep it from sliding forward on the tranny shaft.
>
> -Jon Glauser
> http://jonglauser.blogspot.com
> http://www.evalbum.com/555
>
> _______________________________________________
> General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
>
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Re: coupler stripped, need advice.

gtyler54
In reply to this post by Roland Wiench
In the '70s I did some conversions of VW kombis, fitted other engines. On
one I fitted a 2L BMW engine by taking the bell housing off the gearbox and
making a steel adapter plate straight on the gearbox. The great thing about
that gearbox is that the spigot shaft can be removed with the bell housing
off by sliding the reverse gear towards you after removing a circlip, then
unscrewing the shaft. I had a new shaft made out of 80 ton steel then heat
treated like this.
        I was wondering if an electric conversion could be done by replacing
the bell housing with a much smaller steel plate and shortening the spigot
shaft, could make a neat installation.

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf
Of Roland Wiench
Sent: Saturday, 23 May 2009 2:37 a.m.
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] coupler stripped, need advice.


Hello Soren,

Spline couplers, spine shafts and any other raw stock that is to be cut,
shape and machine, is in a non-harden state, so that it can be machine with
standard cutting tools, unless the machinist have the special cutting tools
for harden material.

I have a local machine shop that sells Browning and Dodge Power transmission

items in either harden material that is already factory machine and harden
to specifications or they handle long length of non-harden spline shafts,
spline couplers, drive key shafts that they can machine.

After these products are cut to length, bore, turn and key, the user may
want it to be the non-harden state, so it acts like a share coupler, where
the coupler brakes instead of the machine that it is driving.

If the user wants it harden for long life, then it either has to be order
that way from the factory, or the shop has to have the equipment to heat it
to a specific temperature, then quickly cool it in oil.  At this point it's
becomes blacken, so it now has to be polish to a bright metal surface and
then reheated to where the material is just turning a light tan color and
then quickly cool again.

Then it again has to be polish with a glass beading and then the metal is
blue or can be plated.

Your material in the spine coupler may be in a non-harden state.  If you can

drill it with a standard drill bit, then its non-harden.

Roland


On May 21, 2009, at 9:48 PM, glasers wrote:

I just stripped my coupler between the motor and my transmission.  I have
been clutchless on it for about a year.  What I would like to do is make it
so this won't happen gain any time soon.  I actually had another coupler 2
years ago that I discovered was about to strip, and I replaced it with this
one.

If I go with a clutch, will this help reduce the stress on the
splines?

I also do not have a motor brace (VW bus) the motor is bolted directly to
the adapter plate and tranny.  Could this be my problem?

Any other great ideas?

Thanks.

Soren
 

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Re: coupler stripped, need Lovejoy advice.

Kyle Bonds-2
In reply to this post by mark at evie-systems
Has anyone here used a Lovejoy connector? - I have read about some people using them.  I tried to figure out their catalog with no luck, and when I sent my specifications they hinted that they did not want any of their products used that way.

Glaser - it sounds like your motor and tranny do not line up, and every rotation scrapes away at the teeth regardless of the load on it.


mark at evie-systems wrote
Contact Wayne at http://ev-blue.com/  He has a VW coupler that includes
the OEM spline mate, and he includes the original clutch springs as
well... still clutchless, but it has the springs.



glasers wrote:
> I just stripped my coupler between the motor and my transmission.  I have
> been clutchless on it for about a year.  What I would like to do is make it
> so this won;t happen gain any time soon.  I actualy had another coupler 2
> years ago that I discovered was about to strip, and I replaced it with this
> one.
>
> If I go with a clutch, will this help reduce the stress on the splines?
>
> I also do not have a motor brace (VW bus) the motor is bolted directly to th
> adapter plate and tranny.  Could this be my problem?
>
> Any other great ideas?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Soren

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-----
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Garland, Texas USA
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Re: coupler stripped, need advice.

Roland Wiench
In reply to this post by gtyler54
Hello George,

The space between the motor housing and the transmission bear will have to
be about 3.75 wide.  My motor coupler is 2.5 inches thick that is about 1/8
inch from the motor bearing housing.  The motor bearing housing is raised
5/8 inch from the motor face, so this now makes the 3.125 inch. You still
need a sliding or flex coupler.  My transmission calls for the transmission
pilot shaft to be able to move 1/8 to 3/16 of a inch.  Now we are now at
3.3125 inch space plus you need about 1/8 inch space from this coupler to
the transmission.

So far this makes for a space requirement of 3.4375.  I use a taper coupler
which needs room to insert the taper bushing into the coupler housing.  So
my total adapter plate has to make up a minimum space of 3.77 inches which
my is made out of solid aluminum from came from Electro Auto.

If you make the adapter plate too thin and space it out with tubing which
some do, it was found that the motor up and down motion flex this plate
which cause coupler wear.  You can use a thinner adapter plate and also use
it for a mid mounting point as way a front mount on the motor and a rear
transmission mount.  This is how some race engines are mounted.  You can get
a mid mounting plate from jegs.com that will fit many transmission.

Roland


----- Original Message -----
From: "George Tyler" <[hidden email]>
To: "'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'" <[hidden email]>
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 1:48 PM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] coupler stripped, need advice.


> In the '70s I did some conversions of VW kombis, fitted other engines. On
> one I fitted a 2L BMW engine by taking the bell housing off the gearbox
> and
> making a steel adapter plate straight on the gearbox. The great thing
> about
> that gearbox is that the spigot shaft can be removed with the bell housing
> off by sliding the reverse gear towards you after removing a circlip, then
> unscrewing the shaft. I had a new shaft made out of 80 ton steel then heat
> treated like this.
> I was wondering if an electric conversion could be done by replacing
> the bell housing with a much smaller steel plate and shortening the spigot
> shaft, could make a neat installation.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On
> Behalf
> Of Roland Wiench
> Sent: Saturday, 23 May 2009 2:37 a.m.
> To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] coupler stripped, need advice.
>
>
> Hello Soren,
>
> Spline couplers, spine shafts and any other raw stock that is to be cut,
> shape and machine, is in a non-harden state, so that it can be machine
> with
> standard cutting tools, unless the machinist have the special cutting
> tools
> for harden material.
>
> I have a local machine shop that sells Browning and Dodge Power
> transmission
>
> items in either harden material that is already factory machine and harden
> to specifications or they handle long length of non-harden spline shafts,
> spline couplers, drive key shafts that they can machine.
>
> After these products are cut to length, bore, turn and key, the user may
> want it to be the non-harden state, so it acts like a share coupler, where
> the coupler brakes instead of the machine that it is driving.
>
> If the user wants it harden for long life, then it either has to be order
> that way from the factory, or the shop has to have the equipment to heat
> it
> to a specific temperature, then quickly cool it in oil.  At this point
> it's
> becomes blacken, so it now has to be polish to a bright metal surface and
> then reheated to where the material is just turning a light tan color and
> then quickly cool again.
>
> Then it again has to be polish with a glass beading and then the metal is
> blue or can be plated.
>
> Your material in the spine coupler may be in a non-harden state.  If you
> can
>
> drill it with a standard drill bit, then its non-harden.
>
> Roland
>
>
> On May 21, 2009, at 9:48 PM, glasers wrote:
>
> I just stripped my coupler between the motor and my transmission.  I have
> been clutchless on it for about a year.  What I would like to do is make
> it
> so this won't happen gain any time soon.  I actually had another coupler 2
> years ago that I discovered was about to strip, and I replaced it with
> this
> one.
>
> If I go with a clutch, will this help reduce the stress on the
> splines?
>
> I also do not have a motor brace (VW bus) the motor is bolted directly to
> the adapter plate and tranny.  Could this be my problem?
>
> Any other great ideas?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Soren
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Re: coupler stripped, need advice.

Mike Golub-2
In reply to this post by Roger Heuckeroth
" I attached that to a taper-lock gear coupling that mounts to the
motor shaft."

curious?  Bolt, weld, silver solder? How does it attach?



On Fri, May 22, 2009 at 5:53 AM, Roger Heuckeroth
<[hidden email]> wrote:

> The metal probably is not hard enough on the splined portion of the
> coupler if it wore out.  I made my coupler using the hub of original
> clutch disc.  I attached that to a taper-lock gear coupling that
> mounts to the motor shaft.  If you want to BYO this might be the
> easiest way of doing it.  Cheap too as it cost less than $100 to make.
>
>
> On May 22, 2009, at 9:22 AM, glasers wrote:
>
>>
>> My coupler is the chuck kind, but it wasn't the chuck that gave out
>> it was
>> the splines on the transmission end that wore down.  This time I
>> assume it
>> is the same problem, but I haven't removed the motor yet.
>>
>> Soren
>> --
>> View this message in context: http://www.nabble.com/coupler-stripped%2C-need-advice.-tp23663191p23670387.html
>> Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive
>> at Nabble.com.
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
>> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
>> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
>> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>>
>
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Re: coupler stripped, need advice.

joe-22
The best way to do this is to have a machinist bore the coupling out, and
turn down the clutch disc hub until the two slip fit together, then have it
welded.

Joseph H. Strubhar

Web: www.gremcoinc.com

E-mail: [hidden email]


----- Original Message -----
From: "m gol" <[hidden email]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[hidden email]>
Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2009 12:35 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] coupler stripped, need advice.


" I attached that to a taper-lock gear coupling that mounts to the
motor shaft."

curious?  Bolt, weld, silver solder? How does it attach?



On Fri, May 22, 2009 at 5:53 AM, Roger Heuckeroth
<[hidden email]> wrote:

> The metal probably is not hard enough on the splined portion of the
> coupler if it wore out. I made my coupler using the hub of original
> clutch disc. I attached that to a taper-lock gear coupling that
> mounts to the motor shaft. If you want to BYO this might be the
> easiest way of doing it. Cheap too as it cost less than $100 to make.
>
>
> On May 22, 2009, at 9:22 AM, glasers wrote:
>
>>
>> My coupler is the chuck kind, but it wasn't the chuck that gave out
>> it was
>> the splines on the transmission end that wore down. This time I
>> assume it
>> is the same problem, but I haven't removed the motor yet.
>>
>> Soren
>> --
>> View this message in context:
>> http://www.nabble.com/coupler-stripped%2C-need-advice.-tp23663191p23670387.html
>> Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive
>> at Nabble.com.
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
>> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
>> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
>> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
>

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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



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Version: 8.5.339 / Virus Database: 270.12.37/2129 - Release Date: 05/22/09
17:56:00

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Re: coupler stripped, need advice.

Roland Wiench
You have to be careful about making this a solid piece.  Some transmissions
need about 1/8 to 3/16 inch slip. And with no transmission, you need about
1/2 to 3/4 inch slip for the up and down motion of the rear axle.

This is why a automatic uses a flex plate and a manual uses a clutch spline
and about 1/8 inch clearance for the tip of the transmission of the pilot
shaft that inserts into the pilot bushing.

Roland


----- Original Message -----
From: "joe" <[hidden email]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[hidden email]>
Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2009 6:34 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] coupler stripped, need advice.


> The best way to do this is to have a machinist bore the coupling out, and
> turn down the clutch disc hub until the two slip fit together, then have
> it
> welded.
>
> Joseph H. Strubhar
>
> Web: www.gremcoinc.com
>
> E-mail: [hidden email]
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "m gol" <[hidden email]>
> To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[hidden email]>
> Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2009 12:35 AM
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] coupler stripped, need advice.
>
>
> " I attached that to a taper-lock gear coupling that mounts to the
> motor shaft."
>
> curious?  Bolt, weld, silver solder? How does it attach?
>
>
>
> On Fri, May 22, 2009 at 5:53 AM, Roger Heuckeroth
> <[hidden email]> wrote:
> > The metal probably is not hard enough on the splined portion of the
> > coupler if it wore out. I made my coupler using the hub of original
> > clutch disc. I attached that to a taper-lock gear coupling that
> > mounts to the motor shaft. If you want to BYO this might be the
> > easiest way of doing it. Cheap too as it cost less than $100 to make.
> >
> >
> > On May 22, 2009, at 9:22 AM, glasers wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> My coupler is the chuck kind, but it wasn't the chuck that gave out
> >> it was
> >> the splines on the transmission end that wore down. This time I
> >> assume it
> >> is the same problem, but I haven't removed the motor yet.
> >>
> >> Soren
> >> --
> >> View this message in context:
> >> http://www.nabble.com/coupler-stripped%2C-need-advice.-tp23663191p23670387.html
> >> Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive
> >> at Nabble.com.
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
> >> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
> >> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
> >> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> >>
> >
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> > Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> >
> >
>
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>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 8.5.339 / Virus Database: 270.12.37/2129 - Release Date: 05/22/09
> 17:56:00
>
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>
>

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Re: coupler stripped, need advice.

joe-22
The clutch hub spline is not anywhere near as long as the transmission
spline; there is plenty of end play, so no need for concern here, Roland.

Joseph H. Strubhar

Web: www.gremcoinc.com

E-mail: [hidden email]


----- Original Message -----
From: "Roland Wiench" <[hidden email]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[hidden email]>
Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2009 7:54 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] coupler stripped, need advice.


> You have to be careful about making this a solid piece.  Some
> transmissions need about 1/8 to 3/16 inch slip. And with no transmission,
> you need about 1/2 to 3/4 inch slip for the up and down motion of the rear
> axle.
>
> This is why a automatic uses a flex plate and a manual uses a clutch
> spline and about 1/8 inch clearance for the tip of the transmission of the
> pilot shaft that inserts into the pilot bushing.
>
> Roland
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "joe" <[hidden email]>
> To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[hidden email]>
> Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2009 6:34 AM
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] coupler stripped, need advice.
>
>
>> The best way to do this is to have a machinist bore the coupling out, and
>> turn down the clutch disc hub until the two slip fit together, then have
>> it
>> welded.
>>
>> Joseph H. Strubhar
>>
>> Web: www.gremcoinc.com
>>
>> E-mail: [hidden email]
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "m gol" <[hidden email]>
>> To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[hidden email]>
>> Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2009 12:35 AM
>> Subject: Re: [EVDL] coupler stripped, need advice.
>>
>>
>> " I attached that to a taper-lock gear coupling that mounts to the
>> motor shaft."
>>
>> curious?  Bolt, weld, silver solder? How does it attach?
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, May 22, 2009 at 5:53 AM, Roger Heuckeroth
>> <[hidden email]> wrote:
>> > The metal probably is not hard enough on the splined portion of the
>> > coupler if it wore out. I made my coupler using the hub of original
>> > clutch disc. I attached that to a taper-lock gear coupling that
>> > mounts to the motor shaft. If you want to BYO this might be the
>> > easiest way of doing it. Cheap too as it cost less than $100 to make.
>> >
>> >
>> > On May 22, 2009, at 9:22 AM, glasers wrote:
>> >
>> >>
>> >> My coupler is the chuck kind, but it wasn't the chuck that gave out
>> >> it was
>> >> the splines on the transmission end that wore down. This time I
>> >> assume it
>> >> is the same problem, but I haven't removed the motor yet.
>> >>
>> >> Soren
>> >> --
>> >> View this message in context:
>> >> http://www.nabble.com/coupler-stripped%2C-need-advice.-tp23663191p23670387.html
>> >> Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive
>> >> at Nabble.com.
>> >>
>> >> _______________________________________________
>> >> General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
>> >> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
>> >> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
>> >> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>> >>
>> >
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > General EVDL support: http://evdl.org/help/
>> > Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
>> > Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
>> > Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>> >
>> >
>>
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>> Usage guidelines: http://evdl.org/help/index.html#conv
>> Archives: http://evdl.org/archive/
>> Subscription options: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>>
>>
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>>
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 8.5.339 / Virus Database: 270.12.37/2129 - Release Date:
>> 05/22/09
>> 17:56:00
>>
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>>
>>
>
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.339 / Virus Database: 270.12.37/2129 - Release Date: 05/22/09
17:56:00

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Re: coupler stripped, need advice.

Roger Heuckeroth
In reply to this post by Mike Golub-2
In my case is is attached by eight 1/4-24 grade 8 bolts.  I tapped and  
threaded the taper-lock gear coupling.  I could post a picture if your  
interested.



On May 23, 2009, at 3:35 AM, m gol wrote:

> " I attached that to a taper-lock gear coupling that mounts to the
> motor shaft."
>
> curious?  Bolt, weld, silver solder? How does it attach?
>

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12